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  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 11:38 am on December 25, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    The endless rebasing project 

    There’s a saying in Greek “Στερνή μου γνώση να σ’είχα πρώτα” that roughly translates to “if only had I known before, what I last learned”. Yes, I’d have done things a lot different! Perhaps the following can be of help to others if they go on such a rebasing task like I did, or just to get ideas on basing projects.

    What I wanted to achieve: table-ready results with the fewer steps possible.
    I blatantly failed due to a combination of factors:
    – Lipped bases
    – Shrinking basing medium

    Before I get to that let me give a quick summary of the project.
    After getting into 3d printing and seeing the capabilities, I decided to correct the varied basing I had for my miniatures. 15mm figures need 15mm bases. Looks better, has better zone of control, and fits better on a grid. Even with over 1000 figures to be rebased, I don’t regret this choice.


    Removing the figures from the bases was perhaps the easier part, with the exception of a handful of pewter miniatures that were superglued on coins, so hard that I had to bend the coin, and the integral base of the miniature to get them removed, it all went smooth more or less. I had about another handful minis barely damaged in the process because I was careless, but I could repair them easily. Overall about 99% success rate.
    Lessons learned:
    – To remove the figures from metal bases, heat them up first. I’ve used the 3d printer hot plate to 80C, and then using gloves, I could pop them carefully off the base.
    – To remove the figures from wood and MDF bases, I soaked the bases in water for several minutes (at least 5-10, the more the better), and then using two sets of pliers, I twisted the base so that the miniature popped off.
    – To remove the figures from plastic bases, I just used two sets of pliers to twist the base so that the miniature popped off.

    After this, I glued the minis to the new lipped 15mm bases, and once dry I had to retexture the bases. Did several different combinations trying to decide the best way to retexture with the least effort.

    For my sci-fi miniatures, I got the best results by applying carefully acrylic brown speckle to the base, and then dipping it into sand while still wet. I had no shrinking, however, the problem is that I had to be extra careful while applying the speckle, as to not dirty up the miniature.

    I didn’t want to do this for my fantasy miniatures, which where over double in number, so I went with a different approach, and brushed matte medium to which I dipped in flock + sand, and later on PVA glue when I ran out of matte medium. This was a big mistake, as I had varying degrees of shrinking, so much that the interior of the base between the lip and the miniature became a flocked gap. Which means I have to follow up with another brushing of glue and flock with static grass. At least from the looks of it, the static grass seems to cover the gaps. As you can understand this has set me back a lot, and I’ve spent tons of my hobby time just doing this.

    On hindsight, I should not be so adamant about a strong bond of the mini to the new base, and even before gluing the mini to the new base, I should have applied the acrylic brown speckle to the base, and just pushed the mini to the speckle to stick it there, there would have been a minimal mound, and it would be ready to dip in sand and voilla, done. Yes the bond would be just the speckle, but that’s enough for the overall integrity of miniatures.
    Alternatively, I could have used unlipped bases, but that would give me a pitcher’s mound which I wanted to get rid of. So it’s not the best solution.
    With all my miniatures rebased now, it’s absolutely too late to have a different go at it. I also don’t see another situation on my side for rebasing again in the future.

    Once I’m done with the final steps of rebasing I’ll start posting pictures of my new sets, as I believe they truly look better now.

    ps. I also did rebasing of my odd based miniatures, and cavalry and mounts as well. Some longer or wider sci-fi minis I based on 15x20mm pill bases, and my fantasy cavalry and mounts/animals on 15x30mm pill bases. These look significantly better now.


     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 12:48 pm on December 7, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    Rebasing, Continued 

    With my fantasy miniatures I decided to delve a bit more into the best retexturing approach during rebasing.

    Rebased miniature prior to re-texturing. Note how the integral base of the miniature is already flocked with static grass from original basing

    aspects under consideration are:

    • ease of application
    • speed of application
    • possibility of error
    • number of steps
    • finished look
    Left to right: Fine Bird sand (top), Large brown sand (bottom), Green flock, Gray Flock, Brown Flock

    from left to right the basing materials used above are as follows:

    1. PVA + large grain sand
    2. Matte Medium + large grain sand
    3. Brown Acrylic Speckle + Static Grass
    4. Matte Medium + large grain sand + fine sand
    5. Matte Medium + large brown flock + fine sand
    6. Matte Medium + thin gray flock + fine sand
    7. Matte Medium + medium green flock + fine sand

    the results of this step are:

    1. large gaps in the base, will need second application, perhaps just one step of static grass will be enough. NOT table ready
    2. large gaps in the base, will need second application, perhaps just one step of static grass will be enough. NOT table ready
    3. table ready, however application is not easy as care must be taken to not paint the mini, and also must apply grass directly afterwards which is slow. Table Ready AND Finished
    4. irregularities in the base, easy application, barely acceptable look, will need static grass. Table Ready
    5. though the brown flock looks odd, will look ok with static grass. Table Ready
    6. looks ok, static grass will elevate the look. Table Ready
    7. looks as Finished, static grass will elevate the look. Table Ready

    In conclusion, the best results where with green flock + sand, and that’s what I’ll go with for my rebasing, so that I can postpone re-grassing them later in the future, and perhaps have time to do a few actual plays during the holidays.

    The steps for Matte Medium + Green Flock + Fine Sand are:

    1. using a brush, generously apply Acrylic Matte Medium inside of the lip of the base
    2. wipe off the outside of the base from any undesired medium
    3. dip the mini in the green flock
    4. shake off the flock
    5. clean the outer part of the base from any stuck material
    6. dip the mini in the sand
    7. shake off sand
    8. clean the outer part of the base from any stuck material

    I assume the above should also work with PVA, but I’d wager it would shrink more, be a bit glossy, and more difficult to apply than matte medium.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 5:09 pm on November 29, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    The grand rebasing project 

    3d printing opened new horizons for me in the hobby, one of them has to do with basing.

    Back in 2019 when I re-entered the hobby and painted my first 15mm miniatures, one important decision I had to make was how to base them.

    With only a few minis at hand, I hadn’t considered it, so I went with what I had readily available, which has euro cent coins. I found that they’re sturdy, magnetic and have an adequate size. 1 cent coin is a bit larger than 16mm, whereas 2 cent is almost 19mm. However even these were in short supply. Hence I went with the silly decision of placing smaller figures like dwarves and goblins on 1 cent coins and bigger ones on 2 cents. I’m not going to cover the larger figures as these are decided on a one by one basis. Soon however I run out of coins and going to the local bank for cash didn’t work, as they wouldn’t give out coin rolls anymore.

    Furthermore I didn’t have any hobby pliers at the time and was also inexperienced with cutting pewter, so if a mini integral base was larger, I accommodated the base around it instead of shaping it to my needs.

    I looked up for washers, but I couldn’t find any without a large hole in the middle. None available around where I live were suitable.

    Next I found a good supply of 20mm bases over at eBay, with good prices per piece for plastic round slotted bases and later for 20mm wooden discs that were even cheaper. In the meantime BREXIT hit, and customs for every shipment in EU, so again I had to adapt and overcome the challenges.

    Overall this had the following results on my regular sized miniatures:

    – For Sci Fi miniatures I have 20mm plastic bases and 20mm wooden discs.

    – For Fantasy short folk I have 1 cent coins and 15mm MDF bases.

    – For Fantasy regular folk I have 2 cent coins and 20mm wooden discs.

    I was never too happy with this scheme, and it’s one of the main reasons I haven’t proceeded with painting my ww2 theme miniatures as I could not decide on basing.

    On retrospect, 20mm is too wide for 15mm miniatures as they take too much space, especially on my 2’x2′ table, essentially having larger area of control and looking oversized against terrain. 15mm feels okay, but the integral base would either be bigger and not fit, or too tall, giving a pitchers mound that looked out of place. The different base sizes between figures would accentuate the problems during playing.

    Here comes 3d printing. In my prints the bases were 18-15mm when I designed them and added them (see the ones from dutchmogul) or 15mm when integrated and scaled down as in Brite Minis. The other day I test printed a few OpenLock terrain tiles scaled down to 60%, and saw that the 2×2 tile was exactly 30mm. Meaning it fit 4 15mm based figures like the Brite Minis perfectly as a 2×2 tile should. Since the OpenLock Clip worked fine scaled down, I was intrigued, and want to proceed with a terrain tile project.

    A 3d printed miniatures on top of a tile

    However I must solve basing first, which once more reared its ugly head.

    20mm bases would just not work, as the miniatures would occupy too much space on the tiles and gaming would feel even more awkward.

    I went with the decision to do rebasing and go with 15mm bases for all applicable figures.

    Main concerns: different glue materials on current bases (PVA, UHU, Speckle, Superglue), different bases materials (Metal, Plastic, MDF, Wood), different textures, different size of integral bases.

    I decided to begin with my Sci Fi miniatures which are fewer in number.

    Designed a 15mm round lipped base to eliminate pitchers mound, and a variant with a cut off lip to accommodate longer oval integral bases.

    Used different techniques to remove the miniatures from the previous base, depending on base material. For plastic, I just twisted the base off with pliers, for wood I soaked the base in shallow water, and then went with pliers twist off.

    Then I filed the bottom of the integral base to clean it up, and superglued the miniatures to the new bases. When they wouldn’t fit, I would snap off parts of the integral base if possible, with hobby clippers.

    This was overall successful. I have only a few miniatures that wouldn’t fit and decided not to rebase them at all (Snakemen, Cnidocytes, Drones) some that I haven’t decided how to rebase (long minis like the dogs) and some that I removed from the bases and found out afterwards that they didn’t fit (Beotans).

    Then I had to decide how to texture the bases with the least effort. Two different attempts of DIY texture paste were unsuccessful as there was intense shrinking and I had to reapply two or three times. What finally worked was a mix of painted acrylic speckle with gravel sand, which I dipped in sand briefly afterwards to give a nice top texture. All the sci fi minis are done now, and perhaps some touch up and spots of grass are due in the future.

    Another benefit of the process is that the new sizes fit into movement trays and takes less space as it can use storage slots. Which solves my concerns for ww2 basing (individual vs multiples) and saves storage space.

    Rebased figures outside of storage tray
    Rebased figures in storage tray
    Rebased minis taking less space
    Rebased minis taking less space
    Bigger or longer minis that were not rebased

    Doing this is a big project, but I definitely believe is worth it. It will open up new avenues in terrain, storage and skirmish gaming.

    Tackling Fantasy minis is going to be harder due to more difficult materials to work with. The first test that I did for rebasing from metal bases was successful. I heated the printers heat bed to 80C and let them stay there for a few minis. Once hot, I dislodged the minis easily.

    Dislodged minis after heating on bed

    Next up I had to decide on a faster way to texture the bases again. I’m working on a two step process. After superglue of the mini to the base, apply PVA carefully inside the base, dip on basing large grain sand, let dry for a minute or two, add PVA and apply static grass.

    Finished rebased miniatures

    This seems to work okay so far.

    I’ll dip into rebasing my fantasy minis (which are like double in number than my sci fi minis). My main concerns are a few resin minis that are glued on metal, and also the 15mm MDF based minis, which I may not rebase at all – haven’t decided yet.

    I’ll keep you posted.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 8:22 pm on November 23, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    Static Grass Applicator 

    A nice base for a miniature helps it pop. Throughout my miniatures painting journey, I’ve gone through all steps. Started with just plain green painted bases back in the ’90s, upgraded with glued upon dirt from the backyard. Now, when I started again back in 2019, I began with experiments using cofee grounds, then modelling sand, birdsand and flock. Flock doesn’t look that good for 15mm miniatures compared to static grass.

    But wherever I looked upon how to apply static grass, I saw only expensive applicators, or DIY electric versions that I did not feel like risking my own safety to build and use. What made a difference was when I found NOCH’s puffer bottle. This is a simple soft-walled plastic bottle, with a “sieved” opening. The concept is that you shake it well to generate static charge, and then “puff” it out by pressing the soft walls. It was way cheaper, about 10 euros at my local rail modelling store in a bundle with a big bag of static grass, and the respective grass glue.

    I loved it. Application was easy, grass stood up, and wasn’t flat, but after using it for a long time, I’ve identified two issues. Firstly, the soft nature of the plastic, gave in, and the “sieve” cover falls out, and doesn’t catch anymore, I had to DIY rubber bands to keep it in place. Secondly, the mess. While for terrain it’s great (I applied static grass to all my hexon pieces using this), for miniatures it’s less than ideal. I have to use large containers and newspapers to gather the grass back, and still need to vacuum all the surrounding area afterwards.

    At some time when I was bored, I just used adhesive putty to stick a miniature inside of the top cap of a plain jar filled with static grass, and shook it to avoid cleaning up. It worked, however the grass was a bit flat compared to when I used the puffer bottle.

    After thinking it over, once I acquired a 3d printer, I designed a 3d model to incorporate all my ideas together.

    Features:

    • Closed jar concept
    • Static rods inside the jar for extra charge at static grass housing
    • Integrated sieve at miniature housing
    • Option to add a tin foil under miniature housing for extra directional charge

    I’ve tested it and it worked fine, and got similar feedback from other users. I’ve used it in the latest big batch of Brite Minis I’ve painted.

    You can grab it for free at makerworld. I’ve included some instructions both in description, in pdf and gif format.

    Hope it works well for you also. Any feedback if you use it, is appreciated.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 6:55 pm on November 22, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    Miniatures pt121 – Footmen 

    The last part of my painted batch of 28 Brite Minis. 3 Halberdiers, 2 Clerics, A Noble, and a Crossbowman.

    Footmen
    Ron Von Swannson
    Cleric
    Cleric
    Halberdier
    Halberdier
    Halberdier
    Crossbowman
     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 2:58 pm on November 19, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    Miniatures pt120 – Adventurers 

    Some adventurers and their hirelings, that I printed in the last batch (just one set left to post)

    Adventurers and hirelings
    Adventurer with torch
    Hireling with torch
    Hireling with torch and bow
    Thief with sack
    Aurora
    Alice with great sword
    Maiden with sword
     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 1:19 pm on November 15, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    Miniatures pt119 – NPCs 

    Not sure about the title. As I said in my previous post I had made a batch painting of 28 minis, and it’s not like they can be grouped together easily. So here are a medic, an old bard, a merchant, an explorer, a crossbow ranger, a highwayman and a Norse maiden.

    NPCs
    Ranger with crossbow
    Highwayman
    Old bard
    Medic
    Explorer
    Merchant
    Norse maiden
     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 9:25 pm on November 13, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    Miniatures pt118 – Thugs 

    Having settled on my print settings, I went on a roll, and now I’m slowly eating away at my newly generated printed pile of shame.

    I went ahead and primed a batch of 28 fantasy miniatures I’ve printed from Brite Minis freebies – fantastic supportless sculpts by the way, that scale down to 15mm nicely, in the meantime I went ahead and subscribed to their patreon – and I’ll be posting them here. Painting 28 minis in a single batch is faster on a per mini basis, but it’s tiresome as it adds up. I don’t know what came over me and I did this, I usually go at my sweet spot which is about a handful at a time.

    Whatever the case, I will not put them all in a single post, but rather divide them in 4 batches of seven. Here’s my first set, that if I could group together, I’d say are thugs, scoundrels and lowlifes from fantasy settings.

    Thugs
    Bandit with sword and shield
    Bandit with spear
    Thug with club and bottle
    Witch hunter
    Rat catcher
    Pirate
    Ranger
     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 3:00 pm on November 3, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    Miniatures pt117 – Knights (FDM) 

    I continued with my experiments on 3d printing 15mm in FDM, using my lessons learned and new things I’ve accumulated along the way.

    As a recap, I’m using a Bambu Labs A1 mini with 0.2 mm nozzle and Bambu PLA.

    Some key points:

    • I did a “reset” on my print profiles, and worked from a preset as a basis, with the following key modifications: 0.04mm layer height, Arachne wall generator, 0.16mm outer wall width, lower speeds.
    • I batch printed 4-6 minis at a time along with a prime tower to allow for cooling.
    • Reduced nozzle temperature to 210 Celsius as the Bambu defaults are too high.
    • Used support free miniatures, as I’m not entirely confident with my support settings and 15mm are more fiddly.

    You can find the print profile here: 004 GA v003 Slow

    This ensured that layer lines are minimal.

    With a good basis, I went on to the next step, painting, again using techniques to minimise layer lines.

    Materials used are Vallejo Polyethylene-Acrylic airbrush Primer (Black), Army Painter Washes. Army Painter Black & White Paints. Royal Talens Amsterdam Artist Acrylics Paints and Inks. Basing materials and static grass for finish.

    My workflow was as follows:

    • Prime black (unthinned primer)
    • Drybrush Black (top down)
    • Drybrush White (sideways)
    • Basecoat with unthinned paint but in thin layers
    • Washes with careful application (not glob over the mini)
    • Varnish and basing

    You can see the core steps here, using Brite Minis 28mm support free miniatures, scaled down by 60% to be at my 15mm scale.

    Naked prints
    Black PE primer – smooths out the print and helps paint adherence
    Black drybrush – this fills in the gaps layer lines
    White drybrush – sideways to not enhance any remaining layer lines
    Basecoats- thick paint in thin layers
    Metallics
    Bases painted
    Washes application in light layers
    Varnished – satin on metallics and leather and matte on clothing, shields and flesh
    Basing complete

    I still had some failures, but they were few and far between. Mainly with printing too thin legs that broke – let’s not forget that the miniatures I used now were 28mm scaled down 60%. I resolved this with reprinting or adding extra parts under the leg for support. Also in some cases I didn’t bother to reprint as I didn’t consider the issue much worse than a pewter sculpt failure (see the crusader sword for example).

    Each mini took around 1 hour to print.

    Here you can see the finished painted prints, overall and in close up.

    Overall I’m enthused with their finished quality. As these were freebies that I used to test, I’ve subscribed to Brite Minis and will print more of their sculpts in the future. That’s going to be a lot of printing and painting which I’m looking forward to.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 12:53 am on October 19, 2024 Permalink | Reply
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    Links 

    In order to make navigation in the blog easier, I’ve spent some time to organize the links to the blog posts. Starting with the RPG Actual Plays.

    Solo Star Wars D6

    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Summary


    Night of the blood

    0 1

    The Siege of Ostenhofen

    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

    Bianka the Ratter

    0 1

    Evie’s Company

    0 1


    The ruins of Syriholm

    0 1 2 3

    Return from Syriholm

    0-1 2-3


    A crime at the river

    0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Summary


    One beginning, multiple endings

    1


    Theseus Deeds

    1 2 3 4 5-6


    Unbeohrt’s Story

    1


    A monster’s bounty

    0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


    Dark Sun

    1 2 3


    The Tale of Bas

    1


    Greder Payne

    1


    The tale of Dash Kile, a Rebel agitator

    1


    Assault on Vespin Tower

    1

    In the Trollshaws

    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

    To Tharbad

    1 2 3

    In the Trollshaws (cont’d)

    13 14 15 16 17


    A Call to Glory

    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

    The Eisenmond Blade

    1 2 3 4

    Alone Against a Call to Glory

    1


    Fringe Bounty Hunting

    1

    The Lost Brother

    1 2

    A letter to the Archduke

    1

    The Fall

    1 2

    Redemption

    1


    Savage Warhammer

    0 1-1 1-2 1-3 1-4 2-1

    GURPS Hammer

    3-1


    Ranger of the North

    1 2 3

     
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