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  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 10:38 pm on March 18, 2025 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , dragonsrest, , spacehulk   

    Space Hulk in 15mm – A board 

    It’s been a while since the last post, and truth is I’ve been busy. Busy, hobby-wise. It wasn’t so much procrastination, rather jumping from project to project.
    Skirmish miniatures gaming (and TTRPGs) have a lot of different aspects to keep a hobbyist engaged. There’s reading rules and settings, collecting stuff like miniatures and accessories, building terrain items, painting miniatures, 3d printing, world design, map making, with the utmost goal of playing the game!
    However all these side-hobbies to playing the game are on their own ground enjoyable, and so I found myself occupied with them. I got into designing and printing and flocking terrain expansion for my Hexxon Tiles (I’ll probably blog about it in another post if there’s enough content to make it worth it), printing and painting Space Hulk tiles, 3d-building dungeon tiles and testing them, and lately printing a 3d space shuttle for my sci-fi games (5 Parsecs from Home I’m looking at you). Constantly jumping around all the above, I was getting into having a lot of semi-started or semi-finished and unfinished projects, and then I realized I need to draw the line somewhere and at least finish something before filling up my closet with more gaming stuff I can’t use. So the focus went on Space Hulk.

    Back in the ’90s, I had bought the 1st edition of Space Hulk. Loved the game. Unfortunately when we moved house I gave it away to a friend as part of the general decluttering and I’m only left with the two books – Rules and Missions & Background – which somehow I didn’t give away.

    I’ve always remembered fondly the game, and the theme and concept, and having returned back to the hobby these past years, I always circled around the idea of getting back to it. My main obstacle now was scale as I’m not willing to start another scale for a game, and getting Space Hulk into 15mm is really hard, as I’d have to find solutions for all the game pieces and tiles.

    For the game pieces I’ve gotten some (rather a LOT) Entomorphs by Vanguard Miniatures; unfortunately I never got their Novan Heavy armour proxies and now they’re out of stock (plus it will cost me like 20 GBP to buy and ship 10 miniatures, and probably another 10 for VAT and customs handling fees). I can proxy Space Marines with some Ion Age knights I had gotten, but they’re not Terminators, and I still may have to find some 3d printable proxies.

    For the tiles I did a lot of searching. Before 3d printing, I had considered building my own, but I was never too excited with DIY examples I saw online, and I know my own terrain building limitations. I had considered using the Army Painter Gamemaster XPS set that I still haven’t finished to this day, for a Sci-fi alternative (and had tested a design for this purpose), but I eventually decided against it, as I could not make nice sci-fi or industrial designs with hand carving. The set is great for dungeons and caverns, but looks wonky for machine made parts, and didn’t want to waste my materials for something I wouldn’t like.

    Here comes 3d printing to the rescue. 3d printing can output awesome terrain items, with detail. Yet still so many things to consider. There are many sets out there and I had to choose what would work best for me. I evaluated cost, type of joints, scaling down, and of course looks.

    Once I saw the HVAC tunnels by Dragon’s Rest I knew my quest was at an end. They looked great! 3d, but yet the minis don’t get hidden; Entire rooms so assembly is not on a tile by tile basis; The looks are awesome. I printed out a sampler of their sci-fi set to ensure that when scaled down the clips would work fine (they do!), and when their last Black Friday sale was on, I bought it.

    And it’s been sitting in my collection of 3d stuff for a few months, until I got the urge to sit down and print it. Found out what kind of tiles I’d need for my 1st edition of Space Hulk and started setting up my build plates. Printed a piece to see how it would work with my 15mm bases, and it works perfect! It uses a 1-inch grid, which when scaled down by 60% is exactly 15mm. Then, it took me a whole week and some, to print out the tile set.

    Testing the grid and clips
    Printing underway
    Printed pieces
    Printed pieces connected

    Printed on Bambu Labs A1 mini, with a 0.4 mm nozzle, in 0.08mm Layer Height, ELEGOO PLA filament.

    The next challenge was painting. I made the smart choice of printing it out in Space Gray PLA, and primed it using a Clear Plastic Primer spray. The idea behind it to use the default colour of the material to save on painting time (and also any missed spots wouldn’t look bad), for the core walls.
    I had also to decide on the paint scheme. I eventually settled on the following: Yellow and Red tubes, various Metallics for connectors and details, Warm Gray computer panels, and Silver or White floors (two types).

    I used both normal painting and drybrushing, and also applied Oil Washes, this last step was a bit of a chore, but I think well worth it. It is also the reason I still haven’t applied a Sealer Varnish; probably in a week or two.

    Drybrushed floors after priming
    Painting
    More painting
    Oil washes drying
    Painting rooms
    Oil washes drying

    Then I spent a couple of weeks doing other things before working on the doors. Painting these took me another few days, as they have plenty of details. I only did 15 doors out of the 20 that the 1st edition core set has, and I realized that it’s not enough to run the 2nd mission which needs 19 doors. So I’ll either paint some of the alternate doors I’ve printed, or print and paint a few more.

    Doors painted
    Doors with washes before sponging
    Washes drying

    Finally, here are some display shots of the finished table, some painted unused pieces, and some pieces I printed extra to paint in the future. As I said in the beginning, I needed to draw the line somewhere and call it done, so I consider these to be extras for a future time slot before I burnout on this.

    First mission overall shot
    Close up
    Close up
    Close up
    Close up
    The rest of my painted pieces
    Some unpainted pieces

    I’ll also see to printing some tokens for blips and overwatch in the future, to have a complete experience.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 6:05 pm on February 8, 2025 Permalink | Reply
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    704 Special Forces – Session 0c 

    I was aiming for running this session last weekend, but with Strep and Flu B in the family two weeks in a row, I just didn’t have the energy to do it. The day came though, and I set a game up for the third Field Exercise of Forgotten Ruin. It took me an entire week though to write it down and post it.

    This one has the entire Squad (both Fire Teams AND the Squad Leader), but no Platoon officers, so pretty much the regular team that I’ll be taking with me during the campaign.

    The enemy force is just two Orc Mobs (Warriors + Archers) of Five orcs each, which sounds easier than last battle, especially considering how I’ll have double the firepower with me this time.

    However, the objective is not to eliminate the enemy, but have a troop of mine go to the center of the battlefield and spend an action there. This sounds way more dangerous than sitting in the safety of long range. I can, of course game the game and sit back and let the orcs come to me, but where would the fun be in that!?

    To recap, the squad composition:

    Squad Leader – Sfc. Kirk Nielsen (M16 AR, M1911 Pistol)

    Fire Team 1

    • Sgt. Karl Welch (M16 AR)
    • Pfc. Terry Shaffer (M60 SAW)
    • Pvt. Martin Murphy (M79 GL, M16 AR)
    • Pvt. Jeffrey Franks (M72 LAW, M16 AR)

    Fire Team 2

    • Cpl. Tommy Mayer (M16 AR)
    • Pfc. Darin Gibson (M60 SAW)
    • Pvt. Barry Mays (M70 Sharpshooter Rifle)
    • Pvt. Dave Huff (M16 AR)

    Some abbreviations:
    AR: Assault Rifle
    SAW: Squad Automatic Weapon (M60)
    ARGL: Assault Rifle + Grenade Launcher (M79)
    LAW: Light Anti-tank Weapon (M72)

    Distance conversions
    Since the game is focused for a 3×3 table, and I’m going with 15mm miniatures on a 2×2 table (with the new 15mm base size, yay!), I’ll do a subtle conversion to gain a bit more room to play, but without being too fiddly to use. I’ll double the values, but measure in centimeters instead of inches, so a Speed of 5″, would convert to 10 cm.

    Champions: 1,2 No Champions

    The two Fire teams met, and Sergeant First Class Nielsen arrived and took command from Master Sergeant Frank Lee. “Squad is yours Nielsen, I have to get back to Platoon HQ. Tangos are 2 klicks NNE, they seem to be guarding a tower. You are to investigate and eliminate any opposition.” Lee gave the orders and left, M16 strapped on his shoulder.
    A short while later the 9 soldiers arrived at the point of interest. Two mobs of orcs were visible in the distance, archers sitting behind cover in some ruins. A tower in the middle of the battlefield.
    Nielsen gathered the squad. “Fire Team 1 take the West Side, Fire Team 2 take the East side, you’ll provide cover against the enemy. I’ll rush in to investigate and dash back to you.”

    Round 0

    Round 1

    Initiative:
    2, 2, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6
    Sfc. Kirk Nielsen (M16 AR, M1911 Pistol) – 4
    Sgt. Karl Welch (M16 AR) – 4
    Pfc. Terry Shaffer (M60 SAW) – 4
    Pvt. Martin Murphy (M79 GL, M16 AR) – 5
    Pvt. Jeffrey Franks (M72 LAW, M16 AR) – 5
    Cpl. Tommy Mayer (M16 AR) – 3
    Pfc. Darin Gibson (M60 SAW) – 2
    Pvt. Barry Mays (M70 Sharpshooter Rifle) – 2
    Pvt. Dave Huff (M16 AR) – 6

    Quick Phase

    Pvt. Mays shoots his M70 at the orc archers in cover: 6+1: Great hit: 1+1/1+1: No Damage
    Pvt. Gibson shoots his M60 at the orc archers in cover: 3,3,4,4: Miss
    Sgt. Mayer shoots his M16 at the orc archers in cover: 2: Miss

    Enemy Phase

    The Orc archers suffer from War rage, and they move out of cover
    The Orc warriors move in a flanking motion from the other side

    Slow Phase

    SFC Nielsen dashes to the objective tower
    Pvt Huff shoots his M16 at the Orc archers out of cover: 4: Hit: 2: No Damage
    Fire team 1 moves to the rock formation

    Round 1

    Fire Team 2 opens a volley of fire at the orc archers in the ruined gatehouse, however the orcs are in cover, and most of the shots miss, except one aimed shot by Pvt. Mays’ sharpshooter rifle, which grazes an orc, without wounding it.
    Furious that they’re being shot at, the orc archers jump down from the gatehouse and out of cover, screaming war cries at the soldiers. The other group of orcs, stay in cover and proceed in a flanking movement from the west.
    With the enemy busy, SFC Nielsen runs in a straight line towards the tower.
    Pvt. Huff takes an extra shot at the orc archers, but misses, while Fire Team 1 moves in ready position waiting for the enemy to come to them, and keeping overwatch of the open ground at the west side of the tower.

    Round 2

    Initiative:
    1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 5, 5, 6
    Sfc. Kirk Nielsen (M16 AR, M1911 Pistol) – 1
    Sgt. Karl Welch (M16 AR) – 1
    Pfc. Terry Shaffer (M60 SAW) – 1
    Pvt. Martin Murphy (M79 GL, M16 AR) – 5
    Pvt. Jeffrey Franks (M72 LAW, M16 AR) – 5
    Cpl. Tommy Mayer (M16 AR) – 1
    Pfc. Darin Gibson (M60 SAW) – 1
    Pvt. Barry Mays (M70 Sharpshooter Rifle) – 1
    Pvt. Dave Huff (M16 AR) – 1

    Quick Phase

    Pvt. Gibson shoots his M60 at the orc archers out of cover:6,2,2,1: Great Hit: 4,1: One orc archer is down
    Pvt. Mays shoots his M70 at the orc archers out of cover: 4+1: Hit: 1+1: No Damage
    Cpl. Mayer shoots his M16 at the orc archers out of cover: 5: Hit: 6: Orc archer down
    Pvt. Huff shoots hiss M16 at the orc archers out of cover: 5: Hit: 1: No Damage
    SFC Nielsen moves into the tower: Interact: 5+1/4: Success
    Sgt. Welch Delays
    Pfc. Shaffer Delays
    Orc Archers Morale: 2,4: Orc Archers Stay

    Enemy Phase

    Orc Archers shoot at SFC Nielsen (in cover): 1,5,3: Miss
    Orc Warriors War rage forwards SFC Nielsen

    Slow Phase

    PFC Shaffer shoots his M60 at the Orc Warriors: 1,2,3,4: Hit: 6: Orc Warrior is down
    Sgt Welch shoots his M16 at the Orc Warriors: 5: Hit: 5: Orc Warrior is down
    Pvt Murphy shoots his M16 at the Orc Warriors: 5: Hit: 4: Orc Warrior is down
    Pvt. Franks shoots his M16 at the Orc Warriors: 3: Miss
    Orc Warriors Morale: 2,4,6: Orcs Warriors Stay

    Round 2

    Fire team 2 keeps shooting at the enemy, who are now carelessly out of cover. Two orc archers are down.
    SFC Nielsen enters the ruined tower. As he scouts around he sees weird markings of a ritualistic nature. He notes some of them down in his notepad, before noticing the orc archers through the rubble at the dilapidated north wall, aiming at shooting at him. The arrows all strike at the masonry, Nielsen is safe for a few moments, but he knows he has to get out of there.
    The Orc group from the west, enraged at their enemy in the tower, rush towards him, hoping to get there soon, but they’re now out of cover. Fire team 1 blasts at them with all their guns, killing three of them.

    Round 3

    Initiative:
    1,2,3,3,3,4,5,5,6,6

    Sfc. Kirk Nielsen (M16 AR, M1911 Pistol) – 3
    Sgt. Karl Welch (M16 AR) – 3
    Pfc. Terry Shaffer (M60 SAW) – 1
    Pvt. Martin Murphy (M79 GL, M16 AR) – 4
    Pvt. Jeffrey Franks (M72 LAW, M16 AR) – 5
    Cpl. Tommy Mayer (M16 AR) – 3
    Pfc. Darin Gibson (M60 SAW) – 2
    Pvt. Barry Mays (M70 Sharpshooter Rifle) – 5
    Pvt. Dave Huff (M16 AR) – 6

    Quick Phase

    SFC Nielsen moves out of the tower back towards the squad
    Cpl Mayer shoots his M16 at the Orc Archers: 6: Great Hit: Damage: 5,5: Orc Archer is down
    Sgt Welch shoots his M16 at the Orc Warriors: 3: Miss
    Pvt Gibson shoots his M60 at the Orc Archers: 5,5,3,2: 2 Hits: 6,2: Orc Archer is down
    Pfc Shaffer shoots his M60 at the Orc Warriors: 2,3,3,4: Hit: 5: Orc Warrior is down
    Morale: Orc Archers: 3,3: Orc Archers Stay
    Morale Orc Warriors: 2: Orc Warrior Stays

    Enemy Phase

    Orc archer moves forward and shoots SFC Nielsen: 5: Hit: Damage: 1 SFC Nielsen is stunned
    Orc Warrior is with war rage and dashes towards Nielsen

    Slow Phase

    Pvt Mays shoots his M70 at the Orc Archer: 4+1: Hit: 6+1: Orc Archer is down
    Pvt. Murphy shoots his M16 at the Orc Warrior: 5: Hit: 6: Orc Warrior is down

    Battle is over.

    Round 3

    SFC Nielsen is not going to stay and find out if he can defeat the orcs in close combat. He dashes out of the tower back towards the safety of his own men. In the meantime, the Fire teams don’t stop shooting. 2 more orc archers are down, and another orc warrior. Despite their severe losses, the humanoids stick to fight to the end.
    The last remaining orc archer has a clear shot at the squad leader and takes it, the arrow hitting the Sergeant. From the west another orc closes at him, screaming with rage and brandishing his weapons.
    They don’t get a chance to hurt the sergeant again though. A careful shot from Private Mays, takes out the archer, and one from Private Murphy takes out the warrior.
    The day is victorious, without any casualties, but they need to head back and report to HQ what they found.

    Summary

    As expected, the player side was victorious. I felt like the odds were in our favor right from the start. We were facing against fewer enemies, and we had more men than in the previous exercise. Perhaps if the table was more busy with terrain it could have been a bit different. During the regular campaign, terrain placement is more random from what I’ve read, and not left up to the player as in the exercises. It is my understanding that this (and of course the Aggression rule) will have severe impact to the flow of battle, but I’ll have to play it out and see for myself.
    The battle ended quickly and I didn’t even have to (or rather forgot because it was going so well) use the Leadership tactics.
    For the beginning of the campaign in next session, I’ll write down and finalize my own theme of the world, and perhaps spend a Story point to bring in Athen Smarte from my solo RPG sessions.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 1:45 pm on January 23, 2025 Permalink | Reply
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    3d printing with FDM in 15mm – an issue of Quality 

    In the past couple of months I’ve been 3d printing miniatures in 15mm scale using my Bambu Labs A1 mini with a 0.2mm nozzle and basic PLA filaments. The results so far were good, some better, some worse, but good enough for my (solo) table.

    However, continuing my last post about painting these, I could not help but have a slight feeling of frustration fighting against these minor imperfections and layer lines.

    So I decided to take a plunge further, and see if I can accomplish even better results on the printing side.

    I’ll explain all my process, because I think there’s valuable info, if you don’t want to read it, and just want the print settings, scroll down.

    The Basics

    My machine is a Bambu Labs A1 mini. I have installed a 0.2mm nozzle. I got a big supply of ELEGOO PLA. It’s really cheap, as I got it at about 10 bucks a roll, final price with shipping, no customs or extra charges. Perhaps some more fancy filament would give better results, but that’s what I have and what I worked with.

    Calibration

    With Bambu Labs A1 mini I was complacent, reliant on the automated calibration settings, and just using filament manufacturer specs. It became evident to me that if I want to get the best print output I want, I’d have to do manual calibration.

    I used Orca Slicer, and run a temperature tower from 190C to 230C. At the temperature of 190, 195 and 200 I had no stringing.

    Temperature tower

    I then did a Flow Rate compensation test. For ELEGOO PLA the manufacturer gives a value of 0.98. After running the calibration, I increased it to 1.029, as I found the +5 had the best surface.

    Flow Rate calibration

    I followed up with the Pressure Advance test. I did, Line, Pattern and Tower. For my 0.2mm nozzle this gave the best results at k 0.2

    Pressure advance calibration

    Just a minor note that I also flow rate calibrated all my 3 opened colours (white, black and space gray) of ELEGOO PLA and got consistent results of 0.2 for my 0.2mm nozzle and 0.02 for my 0.4mm nozzle.

    Finally I did a retraction tower calibration and got no stringing at all. So I kept the retraction length at 0.4 as proposed.

    Retraction calibration

    The I printed a miniature with temperature at 200C. The improvement was evident, but I could see very fine stringing on the prime tower, so I decided to go lower, at 190C which is within manufacturer specs and also was good at the temperature tower, and what do you know? Stringing disappeared.

    The takeaway here is if you want to print minis, spend some time and calibrate your printer. It pays off.

    With this out of the way, let’s talk about print settings.

    Acknowledgments

    First of all I’d like acknowledge /u/HOHansen’s major input into giving valuable guidelines, settings, painting tips and driving the FDMminiatures printing community forwards. Thanks. I doubt all of this would have been possible without a strong foundation to experiment with.

    Also many thanks to Fat Dragon Miniatures who have shared their print profiles and show that nice quality minis are possible with FDM.

    Settings

    I won’t go into many details here, as I have done this thoroughly in the past, but give some highlights and thoughts, as well as as key improvements.

    First of all I decided to experiment. I used Orca Slicer and used all their fancy bells and whistles. Scarf joints, Precise Z height, whatever I read that could improve quality and was experimental, I enabled.

    I lowered my Layer Height to 0.03mm. Yes. That’s lower than the calculated 20% of nozzle size. I reduced resolution to 0.001 and also the Slice Gap Closing radius value.

    I reduced the speeds significantly. Quality takes time. I get 2-3 hours of printing time for a single 15mm miniature. Silly? Not for me.

    Kept Arachne, and my Prime Tower.

    NOTE: I have not tackled support settings yet. If you need supports you’ll have to plug in your own settings, these do NOT work.

    0.03 GA V 0.02.json

    Printing

    Clean levelled plate, lubricated Axes, Dynamic Flow Calibration Disabled. Good to go.

    Then I went ahead and printed a Brite mini with my fingers crossed. And what do you know? It worked, amazingly well if I may add. I then printed another one to ensure I have repeatability, and it wasn’t plain luck, it worked as well. Even my “shield” issue was gone (if you’ve noticed my prints so far, the shields had a warp in the lower left side).

    There was no stringing and had to do no post processing with a lighter.

    On purpose I chose well detailed miniatures like the space bandit and Greek hero.

    Bandit front
    Bandit back
    Greek hero front
    Greek hero back

    Painting

    I felt confident and decided to go ahead with my “regular” painting process and do my horizontal slap chop., a single damp coat of paint and varnish.

    Miniatures front
    Miniatures back
    Base paints front
    Base paints rear

    However as /u/Toprewolf proposed, I decided not to apply my regular water based washes, and experiment with Oil washes. Last time I had tried it, it didn’t work as I had hoped, but this time I studied better. I’m still expecting some quality supplies to arrive, but I still wanted to test it. So I decided to test an oil wash made with my dollar store oils on the Greek hero.

    Greek hero front
    Greek hero rear

    It’s still pending the oils to cure and an oil varnish to secure it. But it’s good enough to showcase.

    I’m absolutely thrilled with the results. The layer lines are almost nonexistent and this was evident in all steps. Imperfections have vanished. I could see details in the toes and sandals, that my painting covered.

    Once I get my quality oils and varnish the minis, I’ll take new photos and upload the results and update this post but I know people are asking about this, so I wanted to share as early as possible.

    Next steps

    I’ve decided to modulate my hobby time so as to have the most fun, so it’s going to be mostly playing on weekends and painting and printing on weekdays.

    On the printing front, the next thing I want to address is Supports.

    Summary

    Printing high quality minis in small scales is possible in FDM. You’ll need a quality printer that is carefully calibrated and well maintained. Filament must be in a good condition. Reducing the layer and resolution means you’ll need to go slow. Going slow, in turn means reducing the temperature to avoid stringing and oozing. A prime tower is important to allow for the small 15mm mini to cool before the next layer.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 9:56 pm on January 19, 2025 Permalink | Reply
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    704 Special Forces – Session 0b 

    How does one balance the precious little hobby time between everything?
    With the few personal hours left after work and family, I often find myself sidetracked from what I want to do. A few months prior, I was at a stalemate in painting – I had almost finished what I wanted to paint in my two major themes – Fantasy and Futuristic. If one applied a logarithmic scale, I was at the top. Historicals and Modern I had decided not to touch yet – it feels daunting to start another theme project.
    But then I got my 3d printer, and a whole new world of possibilities begun. It’s an entire new hobby, and it slowly eats away from my tabletop gaming hobby time. Don’t get me wrong – I love it! But even after getting to a comfortable learning point, a simple thing which was supposed to be “paint a squad of US special forces for Forgotten Ruin” quickly lead me to tuning printer settings, trying new painting techniques, printing a photobox and taking new pictures and forgetting what I had initially set out to do. I have even considered 3d sculpting, downloaded blender, and more…
    Which is all cool and such, but there’s one pitfall. Hobby time is nice and relaxing, but one must be careful of burnout. I think the best thing to do is mix and match hobby stuff, so I’ll try to be more conscious on what I set out to do. Having the printer pump out minis and terrain while I’m playing is no problem, but being hands on over it, and painting stuff as they come out makes me miss what this whole thing is about. Getting little mens on the table and have them battle it out!

    So, I’m setting up for the second game and respective After Action Report (that’s what I’ll call them as stated in Forgotten Ruin). The second excercise is with the second Fire Team, supported by the Platoon Sergeant against two squads of Orcs. But this time the Orcs have archers! Let’s hope the superior firepower will help us escape unscathed.

    Platoon Sergeant – Msg. Frank Lee (M16, Pistol)
    Fire Team 2

    • Cpl. Tommy Mayer (M16 AR)
    • Pfc. Darin Gibson (M79 SAW)
    • Pvt. Barry Mays (M70 Sharpshooter Rifle)
    • Pvt. Dave Huff (M16 AR)

    I can’t see any mention of the armament of Platoon Sergeant, so I’ll go ahead and give them the same as Squad Leader (AR, Pistol)
    I’ve rolled one Champion for the Orc Warriors mob.

    Reading through the Orcs, I see that they suffer from War Rage, something which I did not take into account last time when I ran Excercise 1. War Rage means that a random mob will move towards the player, without any consideration for cover, but gaining a +1 to Hand to Hand Combat Skill.

    Some abbreviations:
    AR: Assault Rifle
    SAW: Squad Automatic Weapon (M60)
    ARGL: Assault Rifle + Grenade Launcher (M79)
    LAW: Light Anti-tank Weapon (M72)

    Distance conversions
    Since the game is focused for a 3×3 table, and I’m going with 15mm miniatures on a 2×2 table (with the new 15mm base size, yay!), I’ll do a subtle conversion to gain a bit more room to play, but without being too fiddly to use. I’ll double the values, but measure in centimeters instead of inches, so a Speed of 5″, would convert to 10 cm.

    Battle Round 0

    Master Sergeant Lee is accompanying the fire team lead by Corporal Tommy Mayer back to base after a patrol, when they hear the distant sound of gunshots.
    The team crouches and Mayer looks at Lee. “That’s the sound of our M16s boy. We have engaged the enemy, let’s hope Sergeant Welch can lead his men through in one piece.”
    “Corporal!” Private Mays calls. He’s scoping through his M70 optics.
    “What is it Barry?” Mayer asks.
    “We got movement dead ahead. Two mobs coming this way.” Mays reports.
    “Alright team up. Eliminate all tangos. We need to rendezvous with Fire Team 1.” The Master Sergeant orders and they close in on the orcs.

    Battle Round 1
    Initiative:
    Msg. Frank Lee (AR, Pistol) – 3
    Cpl. Tommy Mayer (AR) – 2
    Pfc. Darin Gibson (SAW) – 2
    Pvt. Barry Mays (M70 Sharpshooter Rifle) – 1
    Pvt. Dave Huff (AR) – 5

    Quick Phase
    Msg. Lee shoots AR to Orc Warriors Mob (Champion) in the open: 5: Hit: Save: 3: No Save: Damage: 2: No Damage.
    Pvt. Mays shoots M70 Sharpshooter Rifle to Orc Warriors Mob (Champion) in the open: 3+1: Hit: No Save: Damage: 2+1: Orc Champion is down.
    Cpl. Mayer shoots AR to Orc Warriors Mob in the open: 4: Hit: Damage: 4: Orc Warrior is down.
    Pfc. Gibson shoots M60 Squad Automatic Weapon to Orc Archers Mob in cover: 1,2,4,5: Miss.

    Enemy Phase
    The Orc Archers mob is consumed by War Rage and dash towards the Special Forces.
    The Orc Warriors mob also moves towards the Special Forces. Morale: 2,4: Orcs Stay.

    Slow Phase
    Pvt. Huff moves behind cover and shoots AR to Orc Archers Mob in cover: 3: Miss.

    Battle Round 1

    The special forces open fire to the orcs. Lee, Mayer and Mays all shoot at the orc warriors. Mays has the bigger meaner of them in his crosshair, ‘probably their leader’ he thinks as he fires, the bullet going through his enemy’s skull. Mayer also kills one of them. Gibson’s burst of fire is heard as he shoots at the orc archers behind the wall aiming to suppress them, however it has the opposite result. The orcs are enraged by this blast of bullets and leap over the low wall, and dash towards the rangers, as the other mob advances through the woods. Private Huff tries to flank and shoot, but he misses.

    Battle Round 2
    Initiative:
    Msg. Frank Lee (AR, Pistol) – 2
    Cpl. Tommy Mayer (AR) – 6
    Pfc. Darin Gibson (SAW) – 1
    Pvt. Barry Mays (Sharpshooter Rifle) – 6
    Pvt. Dave Huff (AR) – 6

    Quick Phase
    Pfc. Gibson shoots M60 Squad Automatic Weapon to Orc Archers Mob in the open: 1,2,4,4: 2 Hits: Damage: 5,4: 2 Orc Archers down.
    Msg. Lee: Leadership Tactic: Mortars! on the Orc Archers Mob: 2: 2″ West: 2 Orc Archers Hit: Damage: 2+1,3+1: 2 Orc Archers down.

    Enemy Phase
    The Orc Warriors mob is consumed by War Rage and dash towards the Special Forces.
    The Orc Archers mob moves closer and shoots at Msg. Lee (he’s the only one in range): 4,6: Hit: 6: Msg. Lee is down. Morale: 1,2,5,5-2: One Orc Archer Flees.

    Slow Phase
    Cpl. Mayer shoots AR to Orc Archers Mob in the open: 6: 2 Hits: Damage: 1,6: Orc Archer is down.
    Pvt. Mays shoots M70 Sharpshooter Rifle to Orc Warriors Mob in the open: 5: Hit: Damage: 5+1: Orc Warrior is down.
    Pvt. Huff moves out of cover and shoots AR to Orc Warriors Mob in the open: 3: Miss.

    Batte Round 2

    “Gotcha!” Gibson keeps firing at the orc archers who are now out of cover, mowing 2 of them. In the meantime Lee is on the radio for Mortar support, and they listen at the distinctive whistling sound and “BOOM”, two more orc archers are blown to pieces. The last two keep charging and shoot their arrows, one flies above the Master Sergeant’s head, while the other lodges itself in his leg.
    “Man down!” Private Mays shouts, as Mayer kills the orc who shot Lee. The other archer screams something illegible and flees. Private Mays shoots down an orc warriors who closes in further, just before they reach the woods. Private Huff worried that he’s exposed, moves to the side to see his enemies and shoots at them, but his shots go stray.

    Battle Round 3
    Initiative:
    Msg. Frank Lee (AR, Pistol)
    Cpl. Tommy Mayer (AR) – 6
    Pfc. Darin Gibson (SAW) – 5
    Pvt. Barry Mays (Sharpshooter Rifle) – 2
    Pvt. Dave Huff (AR) – 2

    Quick Phase
    Pvt. Mays shoots M70 Sharpshooter Rifle to Orc Warriors Mob in the open: 3: Miss.
    Pvt. Huff shoots AR to Orc Warriors Mob in the open: 4: Hit: Damage: 6: Orc Warrior is down.
    Enemy Phase
    The Orc Warriors mob is consumed by War Rage and dash towards the Special Forces. Morale: 3,5: Orcs Stay.

    Slow Phase
    Cpl. Mayer shoots AR to Orc Warriors Mob in the open: 6: 2 Hits: Damage: 3,4: Orc Warrior is down.
    PFC Gibson moves to the side, but can’t get clear LOS to shoot his M60

    Battle Round 3

    Another shot is fired from Mays’ rifle, but this one misses it’s target. Huff however fires again his M16 and kills another one of the incoming orcs, who are now within breathing distance. The Corporal thinks quickly and moves to the side to ensure he can provide cover fire, he finds an opening and shoots down another orc, only two enemies remain. Private First Class Gibson goes the other way to cover Huff, but the M60 is too heavy to carry around and he doesn’t have a clear line of fire.

    Battle Round 4
    Initiative:
    Msg. Frank Lee (AR, Pistol)
    Cpl. Tommy Mayer (AR) – 3
    Pfc. Darin Gibson (SAW) – 4
    Pvt. Barry Mays (Sharpshooter Rifle) – 6
    Pvt. Dave Huff (AR) – 6

    Quick Phase
    Cpl. Mayer shoots AR to Orc Warriors Mob in the open: 5: Hit: Damage: 3: Orc Warrior is down.

    Enemy Phase
    The Orc Warriors mob is consumed by War Rage and charges at Huff: 5+1/3-1: Orc Hits: Damage: 6: Pvt. Huff is down. Morale: 2: Orc Stays.

    Slow Phase
    Pfc. Gibson shoots M60 Squad Automatic Weapon to Orc Warrior in Cover: 3,3,4,5: Miss
    Pvt. Mays shoots M70 Sharpshooter Rifle to Orc Warrior in Cover: 4+1: Miss

    Battle Round 4

    The Corporal shoots down one more orc next to Private Huff, but it’s not enough. The last orc standing, charges and jabs at Huff with his spear. Huff falls down. Gibson shoots a long burst of fire at his enemy, but only hits the trees. Private Mays also shoots with his M70 rifle, but the erratic movement of the orc doesn’t allow for a clean shot, and he misses too.

    Battle Round 5
    Initiative:
    Msg. Frank Lee (AR, Pistol)
    Cpl. Tommy Mayer (AR) – 3
    Pfc. Darin Gibson (SAW) – 5
    Pvt. Barry Mays (Sharpshooter Rifle) – 5
    Pvt. Dave Huff (AR) – 6

    Quick Phase
    Cpl. Mayer delays.

    Enemy Phase
    The Orc Warriors mob is consumed by War Rage and charges at Pfc. Gibson. Cpl. Mayer Snap Fires: 5: Hit: Damage: 6: Orc Warrior is down.

    Battle Round 5

    The Corporal waits, his hand on the trigger, for the orc to charge out of the woods and onto his closest squad mate. And his estimation is correct, within moments of the fall of Private Huff, the orc dashes out of cover towards Gibson, only to be intercepted by Mayer’s bullets. The orc drops down dead.
    The team quickly tends to their wounded, and Mayers is quickly relieved to find out the injuries were superficial. They need to get back and rendezvous with Team 1.

    End of Battle.

    Summary

    This was a very exciting battle! The Forgotten Ruin ruleset is tailored to the task, and sofar it delivers. Some things which are different from the other 5X games: enemies are not Stunned nor Wounded. It’s alive or down, there’s no other status. This makes for a really quick combat resolution especially when there’s so many figures on the board. At the same time Stuns exist for the player team, giving some extra detail where needed.
    The soldiers have a lot of firepower, and this is evident, but they’re vulnerable, and a stray arrow, can easily take them out. Even more dangerous are the enemies should they close in. Also this firepower is quickly diminished with each casualty, so the tables can turn pretty easily.
    I’m looking forward to try Exercise 3, which will be a challenge both in terms of game, but also for the ruleset, as the number of figures on board increases, and there’s an objective which will set my troops in peril.
    Lastly I will be changing this series name. I haven’t settled on the exact details, but I’ll most likely bind the theme and story to my “A Monsters Bounty” world, more close to Spellcross than the Forgotten Ruin novels, but I think I can make it work well. I’ll do some more careful reading of the Campaign chapter before signing off on this. But these Sessions 0 with the Exercises are to be considered malleable, which is why I’ve avoided giving any more specific details in the story.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 5:49 pm on January 16, 2025 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , art, , , , ,   

    Painting FDM Miniatures in 15mm 

    After 3d printing a couple of scores of miniatures in FDM with my Bambu Labs A1 mini printer, and playing with different settings and trying different painting styles, I decided I had to look into the painting techniques in a more scientific approach, and spending the time to run an experiment might pay off in the long run. So the concept is to print the same miniature, in 15mm, using the same print settings (I went rogue on this part a little down the road), and examine different techniques and if they accenuate or hide layer lines, and how easy or not it is to use with this type of miniatures.

    I want to test if there are techniques to “fill” layer lines without losing detail. One technique that has been tested to work and will be used for the entirety of the experiment is the paint. Paint will be used unthinned, but in lean application. The brush won’t be filled with it, just a light coat will be applied each time. However it won’t be diluted as with normal painting, just a tad bit damp brush prior to using the paint.

    I want to test if drybrushing accenuates layer lines, if black drybrushing hides them, how washes behave with layer lines and if a varnish prior to washes and/or prior to drybrushing can minimize any undesired results.

    As a note for new readers, I’m a long time painter of 15mm minis, with table-ready results. My technique is: Slap-Chop (white drybrush over black primer) followed by Artists (tube) acrylics in a glaze-like fashion (either transparent to semi-opaque paints or diluted opaque paints accordingly) so that the slap-chop works like a highlight-shade. Finish with washes and varnish. Works well for 15mm with nice results without too much effort.

    The model I decided to use is the Greek Hero from Brite Minis. I chose this model because it’s not an easy one. It has armor, cloak, scales, flesh, weapons, and a quite dynamic (for support free) pose. Also it’s support free, so I won’t have to deal with supports, which are a hit or miss thing at the moment as I haven’t nailed down the settings for 15mm, and it is not the purpose of this experiment.

    The first 6 miniatures of the set were sliced in Bambu Studio. Printed with 0.2mm nozzle, 0.04mm layer height. Low print speeds at 50-150mms. Arachne wall generator. Elegoo PLA Space Gray, extruded with nozzle temperature at 200 Celsius. Down the road I printed a couple more with lower speeds at 25mms and 0.03mm layer height, and surprisingly they looked even better, but print time doubled or more at 2-3 hours. Nr 7 was sliced in Bambu Studio, and Nr 8 was sliced in Orca, which for some reason gave even better results. Could be by chance, and I’ll keep an eye for it in the future.

    Since smartphone camera digital photography algorithms tend to distort the images, I wanted to get images as close to the true thing as possible. I 3d printed a Photobox in white PLA, for a proper background, and put back in use my old trusty Sony DSC-TX5 camera. Put it in Macro mode, and adjusted EV to +2 for exposure.

    Miniature #1
    0.04 mm Layer Height
    Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Surface Primer Gloss Black
    Drybrush Army Painter Black
    Drybrush Army Painter White
    Basecoat with Amsterdam All Acrylics Standard
    Wash Army Painter Soft/Strong/Military Shader

    Miniature #2
    0.04 mm Layer Height
    Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Surface Primer Gloss Black
    Drybrush Army Painter Black
    Drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Base
    Drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Highlights
    Drybrush Army Painter White
    Basecoat with Amsterdam All Acrylics Standard
    Wash Army Painter Soft/Strong/Military Shader

    Miniature #3
    0.04 mm Layer Height
    Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Surface Primer Gloss Black
    Varnish Windsor Newton Matt Varnish
    Drybrush Army Painter Black
    Drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Base
    Drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Highlights
    Drybrush Army Painter White
    Basecoat with Amsterdam All Acrylics Standard
    Wash Army Painter Soft/Strong/Military Shader

    Miniature #4
    0.04 mm Layer Height
    Amsterdam All Acrylics Deco Primer White
    Drybrush Army Painter Black
    Drybrush Army Painter White
    Basecoat with Amsterdam All Acrylics Standard
    Drybrush/Edge Highlight Army Painter White
    Wash Army Painter Soft/Strong/Military Shader

    Miniature #5
    0.04 mm Layer Height
    Amsterdam All Acrylics Deco Primer White
    Drybrush Army Painter Black
    Drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Base
    Drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Highlights
    Drybrush Army Painter White
    Basecoat with Amsterdam All Acrylics Standard
    Wash Army Painter Soft/Strong/Military Shader

    Miniature #6
    0.04 mm Layer Height
    Amsterdam All Acrylics Deco Primer White
    Varnish Windsor Newton Matt Varnish
    Drybrush Army Painter Black
    Drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Base
    Drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Highlights
    Drybrush Army Painter White
    Basecoat with Amsterdam All Acrylics Standard
    Wash Army Painter Soft/Strong/Military Shader

    Miniature #7
    0.03 mm Layer Height, 25mms Speed
    Army Painter Terrain Primer Ruins & Cliffs
    Basecoat with Amsterdam All Acrylics Standard
    Wash Army Painter Soft/Strong/Military Shader
    Drybrush Army Painter White

    Miniature #8
    0.03 mm Layer Height, 25mms Speed, Orca Slicer
    Army Painter Terrain Primer Ruins & Cliffs
    Basecoat/Shade/Highlight with Amsterdam All Acrylics Standard

    The Colour Schemes used are as follows:

    #1-7
    Flesh: Naples Yellow Red Deep/Soft Tone
    Tunic: Titanium White/Soft Tone
    Cloak: Pyrolle Red/Strong Tone
    Scale Shirt, Skirt, Sandals: Burnt Sienna/Strong Tone
    Hair: Yellow Ochre/Soft Tone
    Sword Blade: Silver/Military Shader
    Shield, Greaves, Helmet, Sword Pommel & Guard: Bronze/Military Shader
    Floor: Neutral Grey/Military Shader

    #8
    Flesh: Naples Yellow Red/Naples Yellow Red Light/Raw Sienna
    Tunic: Zinc White/Titanium White
    Cloak: Pyrolle Red/Vermillion/Carmin
    Scale Shirt, Skirt, Sandals: Burnt Sienna/Raw Sienna/Burnt Umber
    Hair: Yellow Ochre/Primary Yellow
    Sword Blade: Silver/Zinc White/Payne’s Grey
    Shield, Greaves, Helmet, Sword Pommel & Guard: Bronze/Zinc White/Payne’s Grey
    Floor: Neutral Grey/Zinc White

    After slap-chop, I couldn’t see any substantial difference between the Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethane Black Primer #1-3 and the Amsterdam All Acrylics Deco Primer White #4-6.
    The rattlecan spray primer by Army Painter worked very well. I’ll consider using it for mass-priming 3d-printed miniatures as it will save me a lot of time in the future. The dark gray vs black nature of the colour also is a nice base coat. As to hiding of layer lines I can’t really compare to the brush on primers since the two minis primed with it were printed with different settings.

    Perhaps application was easier for the Vallejo and it dried faster. But there’s no sort of better or worse with regards to layers hiding. I considered them equal for the rest of the test, and used this opportunity to test different things (extra drybrush) on the final stages.

    I couldn’t see any difference either between the ones that were varnished prior to slap chop vs the ones that weren’t. Layer lines seem similar. These are #2 vs #3 and #5 vs #6.

    On the other hand, gradient grays a la zenithal vs a sharp sketch slap chop seem to make a difference. It’s mostly an illusion, but it does seem to help. Also it helps significantly when painting, as the black & white was much harder to “read” vs the gradient gray. Of course major factor here is the 15mm scale and the FDM imperfections.

    Washes tend not to flow easily with FDM, as they get grabbed by layer lines. I could see that on the miniatures varnished before applying wash, there was better flow, without having any major impact on the end result though.

    The one I like the most is #8, the one painted without drybrush and washes, just traditional shading and highlights – it’s the first time I attempted this type of painting, but it seems to work well, and layer lines are almost non-existent.

    The one I like least is #7 the one painted without slap chop, but with washes and drybrush – second to last of the group. It’s too dark for my tastes, and details are non-existent, while layer lines are visible.

    Between the main experiment of the figures #1-6 (different gradient slap chop, varnish steps in between, different primers, extra drybrushing) I can’t tell of any significant difference to the end result. Perhaps #2 & #5 are the best effort-to-result ratio.

    Overall, I’d say that washes and drybrushing accenuate layer lines in 15mm. The best technique is to avoid their use altogether and do shading and highlights using different shades of the same colour paint. If however one was to do a regular slap chop, a black drybrush prior, mitigates it a little bit. A varnish prior to applying washes also allows for the wash to pool into the major recesses instead of the layer lines.

    Some work in progress shots:

    Unprimed #1-6
    Primed #1-6
    Slap-Chop #1-6
    Basecoat #1-6
    Basecoat #1-7, Primed #8
    Washed #1-8

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 9:26 pm on January 13, 2025 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , , ,   

    Miniatures pt123 – Vietnam 

    I’ve dabbled further in supports settings, and for this part I had some better results with painted supports. Still not where I’d like to be, I want to fine tune my settings further.

    Printed and painted a handful more March to Hell Vietnam miniatures. This is a mix from the range, meant to be used in my Forgotten Ruin campaign. It’s a couple more M60 gunners to be used as SAW gunners, an HQ officer to be used as Platoon Leader, a Vietcong riflewoman who can be used as Athen Smarte, and the remaining squaddie from my US Special Forces, a dude with a knife. As always, the photographs tend to be less forgiving that the real life when talking about FDM prints. Nevertheless, in the foreseeable future I want to try out different techniques meant to cover layer lines.

    Combined group photo
    M60 Gunner
    M60 Gunner
    Officer
    Vietcong riflewoman
    Special Forces with knife
     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 10:53 am on January 6, 2025 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: 3dbreed, , , , ,   

    Miniatures pt122 – US Special Forces 

    I like to showcase painted minis so that the end result is evident. Here’s the US Special Forces from March to Hell Vietnam by 3dbreed. My print is missing one miniature which I replaced with the one from their free Promo.
    They’re printed in 15mm scale, in FDM at a Bambu Labs A1 mini with 0.2mm nozzle. 0.04mm Layer Height. ELEGOO PLA filament.
    I had some issues mainly with supports, but at the end I think I’ve solved it. So these prints have been printed with different settings. I resolved to scaled down 55% versions of their 28mm designs, with manual painted Normal Snug supports, but you’ll also find a couple that were printed from their resin-lychee-supported 15mm versions that survived the initial batch printing I did. A few minis had some minor defects due to me mainly being rough with them during support removal before nailing down the setting a, which I solved with UHU Hardplast Glue.
    Painting them was tough, as I tried to create the colours from acrylic palette as I’m missing the Vallejo range. I think they turned out nice.

    US Special Forces
    Leader
    M60 Gunner
    Sniper
    M72 LAW Gunner
    Soldier
    Soldier
    Soldier
    Soldier
    Radio Operator
    Promo Soldier
     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 6:22 pm on January 4, 2025 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: battle-report, , ,   

    704 Special Forces – Session 0a 

    Having set me back a lot, I call my rebasing project done. I’ll most likely discuss the details in another post, because here I want to talk about Forgotten Ruin available for pre-order at this point in time, which nets you with a pdf at the time of purchase, and the hardcopy when it’s printed and shipped.
    Forgotten Ruin is a skirmish miniatures agnostic game by Ivan Sorensen, based on the first novel in the book series of the same name by Jason Anspach and Nick Cole. I won’t delve a lot into the theme as I haven’t read the books (though I’m intrigued and might do so in the future), but the core concept is “special forces vs fantasy foes”. As usual, the game allows for some leeway in the actual story against the preset world, so instead of US Rangers, one could have other special forces, from earlier to later time period. The enemies are foes from a regular fantasy bestiary.
    The concept is something similar to what I’ve been fiddling with. My take was similar to the feeling that Spellcross had given me back in the end of the 90s, and which had inspired my A monster’s bounty solo RPG actual play adventure series. Modern firepower vs fantasy! I’m even thinking of adding Athen Smarte as a known personality just for the fun of it and for connecting my games.
    On the amount of figures on the table, it’s even more than Five Leagues from the Borderlands, ranging in almost half a score for the player side, and the same up to double or triple for the enemies.
    The rules are from the same 5X concept used in Five Parsecs from Home and Five Leagues from the Borderlands, however they’re tailored to the concept. I won’t go into any details, as I think it will be best left for when I actually play it out. The overall feeling I get from reading through it, is that I like the new concepts in the book.

    For this session 0, I’ll go through my setup and also play the demo scenarios (referred to as Excercises in the rulebook).
    So, rulebook check, terrain (fantasy) check, foes miniatures check (mostly), player squad…
    As I read through, I realized I don’t have the figures I want for the game. I have several unpainted WW2 miniatures for my WW2 project, especially British Paratroopers from Forged in Battle but I didn’t want to use them, as their WW2 nature means that some figures need to be in doubles to operate (e.g. LMG, PIAT etc), and basically because when I decide to paint them for my WW2 project, I need them to look the same as the rests of my British Paratroopers platoon, and I’m not too fond of painting an entire platoon of miniatures right now.
    Then I considered my painted sci-fi miniatures, but I decided against also, as I don’t want this concept so much, and also I’m missing any non-standard weaponry for my troops (there’s only a few specialists here and there, and in different uniforms, which I can’t mix and match).
    Started searching online for some suitable 15mm miniature STLs then, and I stumbled upon a March to Hell Vietnam US Special Forces team. They are perhaps on the far end of what I deem acceptable in terms of chonkiness, but they’d fit perfectly on what I’m looking for. The christmas sale was a contributing factor, and I got them.
    Checking with the Forgotten Ruins squad armaments setup, I’ve got almost anything needed. Assault Rifles, Sniper Rifles, Squad Automatic Weapons, Grenade Launchers, Anti-Tank Weapons. Perhaps the only thing missing is shotguns and submachineguns, but I can live with proxying these few.
    But of course I also need to print and paint them. I printed the sampler which went really well, and then started with the Special Forces squad, and I started having failure after failure. Since the models are meant for resin printers, I started having a bad time with supports. A couple models printed with the Lychee-style supports meant for resin printers, survived, and I kept them.
    Then I printed the rest one by one, trying to hone down into the support settings. What I found out worked best (albeit I had to do reprints often) was using Normal, Snug supports. I don’t base the miniature in the slicer, instead I glue it on the base afterwards. I use an UHU Hard Plastics (aka Allplast in some areas of the world) glue which works really well on PLA.
    My next problem was the uniform colours, as I went down the rabbit hole of olive drab, brown purple, etc etc. I did some custom mixes, but I think they turned up too dark for 15mm on my sampler figure so I might have to lighten them up a bit.

    With the squad painted, here’s the roster following the rulebook.

    Platoon Leader – 2Lt. Peter Kobb
    Platoon Sergeant – Msg. Frank Lee
    Squad Leader – Sfc. Kirk Nielsen

    Fire Team 1

    • Sgt. Karl Welch
    • Pfc. Terry Shaffer
    • Pvt. Martin Murphy
    • Pvt. Jeffrey Franks

    Fire Team 2

    • Cpl. Tommy Mayer
    • Pfc. Darin Gibson
    • Pvt. Barry Mays
    • Pvt. Dave Huff

    Names were generated using a 1960s US male names generator.
    Using some help from the generators online, I decided to name them the 704 – Special Forces unit

    With that out of the way, I decided to run the demo scenarios from the rulebook, listed as Field Exercises. Exercise 1 is a simple fight between Fire Team 1 against two orc warrior mobs. I’ve rolled one Champion for each mob.
    As I haven’t finished painting my miniatures at the time of the game, the photographs have the Special Forces painted only in B&W (slapchop). Works well enough for the purpose of the Exercise.

    Sgt. Welch put out his cigarette. “Platoon reports that there are some man-like beasts in the area, they’ve attacked our positions and are to be considered hostile. Their armament is ancient, so we should use our firepower to prevent them coming up close.” The fire team nodded.
    “Let’s do our patrol and head back to base camp. Murphy, take point.” Welch gave his orders.
    It wasn’t long before Pvt. Murphy signaled enemies in sight.

    “Sarge, they seem to have scented us, and are coming this way. Two groups, about 8 enemies in total.” The private reported.
    “Alright boys, it’s time to show those barbarians who’s boss here. I’m informing platoon that we’re about to engage.”

    Some abbreviations:
    AR: Assault Rifle
    SAW: Squad Automatic Weapon
    ARGL: Assault Rifle + Grenade Launcher
    LAW: Light Anti-tank Weapon

    Distance conversions
    Since the game is focused for a 3×3 table, and I’m going with 15mm miniatures on a 2×2 table (with the new 15mm base size, yay!), I’ll do a subtle conversion to gain a bit more room to play, but without being too fiddly to use. I’ll double the values, but measure in centimeters instead of inches, so a Speed of 5″, would convert to 10 cm.

    Battle Setup

    Battle Round 1
    Initiative:
    Sgt. Karl Welch (AR) – 1
    Pfc. Terry Shaffer (SAW) – 6
    Pvt. Martin Murphy (ARGL) – 2
    Pvt. Jeffrey Franks (LAW) – 2

    Quick Phase
    Karl moves 10 cm forward, Shoots AR at Mob #2: 1: Miss
    Jeffrey, Shoot AR at Mob #1: 2: Miss
    Martin, Shoot AR at Mob #1: 4: Hit: 6: Orc down

    Enemy Phase
    Both Orc mobs dash closer behind cover

    Slow Phase
    Terry, Shoots SAW at Mob #1: 5,5,5,1: 2 Hits at closest orc, the other is deflected by cover and the last is a miss: 6, 1: Orc down
    I missed to do a Morale Check per phase...
    Morale check: 1: Failure: 4: Success: One orc from Mob#1 flees

    The orcs hear the sound of gunfire for the first time in their lives. The sergeant fires at the furthest enemies, as he had an open line of fire, but, his shots don’t find the target. Pvt. Franks and Murphy shoot at the humanoids in front of them, bringing one down.
    This doesn’t seem to deter the rest of crazed enemies who quickly realize their enemy has ranged weapons and take cover behind some large boulders. However this doesn’t stop Pfc. Shaffer from unleashing a hail of bullets from his M60 at the mob, killing another orc. A coward from their ranks breaks and flees. Only the biggest meanest orc from their group remains at the north flank.

    Battle Round 1

    Battle Round 2
    Initiative:
    Sgt. Karl Welch (AR) – 3
    Pfc. Terry Shaffer (SAW) – 1
    Pvt. Martin Murphy (ARGL) – 2
    Pvt. Jeffrey Franks (LAW) – 2

    Quick Phase
    Fire Team 1 delays.

    Enemy Phase
    Orc Champion 1 rushes to behind cover, Karl snap fires AR: 5: Hit: 1: No damage
    Jeffrey snap fires AR: 3: Miss
    Martin snap fires AR: 4: Hit: 2: No damage
    Orc Mob #2 moves to cover behind the other boulder

    Slow Phase
    Terry shoots SAW at Mob#2: 6,4,4,1: 1 Hit at closest orc: 5: Orc down
    Morale check: 4: Success

    The sarge orders the fire team to hold until they have a clear line of sight. As the big orc jumps from behind the cover of one boulder to the other, all three special forces shoot their assault rifles at him. Two bullets graze him, and he reaches cover behind the other boulder.
    At the southern flank, the other group approaches Terry, who opens fire with his machinegun, killing another orc.

    Battle Round 2

    Battle Round 3
    Initiative:
    Sgt. Karl Welch (AR) – 3
    Pfc. Terry Shaffer (SAW) – 6
    Pvt. Martin Murphy (ARGL) – 1
    Pvt. Jeffrey Franks (LAW) – 3

    Quick Phase
    Karl moves to the open and shoots AR to Mob #1 Champion: 5: Hit: Save: 6: Champion Saves
    Martin moves and shoots Grenade Launcher to Mob #2: 4: Miss: 3: grenade explodes 3″ in front of the boulder

    Enemy Phase
    Orc champion closes in on Karl
    Mob #2 moves behind cover

    Slow Phase
    Jeffrey shoots AR at Orc Champion #1: 1: Miss: Reroll (Aimed): 5: Hit: Save: 3: No save: Damage: 3: Orc champion #1 is down
    Terry moves around and opens fire with his M60 at Mob #2: 6,2,2,1: 1 Hit: 2: No damage

    The sergeant quickly moves to avoid being caught in melee by his enemy, finds an open line of fire, and fires off a burst to the big mean orc in front of him. The bullets strike true, however the orc seems unharmed as if an unknown force saved him, he closes in on the sergeant, with only a few paces in distance while Pvt. Franks aims and fires at him, the bullet piercing through it’s thick skull, bringing him down.
    At the other side, Murphy fires off his M79 grenade launcher, but miscalculates, and the grenade explodes in front of the boulder under which the orcs have jumped and taken cover. Under the explosion, they rush forward to another cover, receiving a hail of bullets from Shaffer’s machinegun. They escape unharmed.

    Battle Round 3

    Battle Round 4
    Initiative:
    Sgt. Karl Welch (AR) – 4
    Pfc. Terry Shaffer (SAW) – 1
    Pvt. Martin Murphy (ARGL) – 4
    Pvt. Jeffrey Franks (LAW) – 5

    Quick Phase
    Terry shoots at Mob 2:
    6,4,4,3: 3 Hits: Save: 3: No Save: Damage: 4,6,4: All 3 orcs down.

    However, Terry keeps shooting, and mows down all three orcs.
    Sergeant Welch contacts platoon, only to receive reports that Fire Team 2 is also engaged in battle.

    Battle Round 4

    I’m trying out a new approach to photographs depicting the actual play, with arrows and such, I don’t know if I’ll stick with it or not. For more dense battles perhaps an approach of a photo per Phase would be less cluttered, and more clear. I’ll consider it for the next Exercise.

    Summary

    That was a fun first foray. I don’t expect any significant challenge for the first Exercises, it’s just getting to know the rules and lay of the game. In the meantime I got some more STLs from March to Hell Vietnam to print more figures for the player side, and hopefully I’ll slowly have them painted soon enough to have a proper table.
    I’m really intrigued by the concept, and will most likely modify it to fit my own theme, but I haven’t decided yet.
    The nice things with the Exercises is that I can use this extra time to finalize the world and squad to my liking before setting it down in writing.
    Looking forward to expanding further on the game and trying out the unique rules, enemies and challenges it contains.

     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 11:38 am on December 25, 2024 Permalink | Reply
    Tags:   

    The endless rebasing project 

    There’s a saying in Greek “Στερνή μου γνώση να σ’είχα πρώτα” that roughly translates to “if only had I known before, what I last learned”. Yes, I’d have done things a lot different! Perhaps the following can be of help to others if they go on such a rebasing task like I did, or just to get ideas on basing projects.

    What I wanted to achieve: table-ready results with the fewer steps possible.
    I blatantly failed due to a combination of factors:
    – Lipped bases
    – Shrinking basing medium

    Before I get to that let me give a quick summary of the project.
    After getting into 3d printing and seeing the capabilities, I decided to correct the varied basing I had for my miniatures. 15mm figures need 15mm bases. Looks better, has better zone of control, and fits better on a grid. Even with over 1000 figures to be rebased, I don’t regret this choice.


    Removing the figures from the bases was perhaps the easier part, with the exception of a handful of pewter miniatures that were superglued on coins, so hard that I had to bend the coin, and the integral base of the miniature to get them removed, it all went smooth more or less. I had about another handful minis barely damaged in the process because I was careless, but I could repair them easily. Overall about 99% success rate.
    Lessons learned:
    – To remove the figures from metal bases, heat them up first. I’ve used the 3d printer hot plate to 80C, and then using gloves, I could pop them carefully off the base.
    – To remove the figures from wood and MDF bases, I soaked the bases in water for several minutes (at least 5-10, the more the better), and then using two sets of pliers, I twisted the base so that the miniature popped off.
    – To remove the figures from plastic bases, I just used two sets of pliers to twist the base so that the miniature popped off.

    After this, I glued the minis to the new lipped 15mm bases, and once dry I had to retexture the bases. Did several different combinations trying to decide the best way to retexture with the least effort.

    For my sci-fi miniatures, I got the best results by applying carefully acrylic brown speckle to the base, and then dipping it into sand while still wet. I had no shrinking, however, the problem is that I had to be extra careful while applying the speckle, as to not dirty up the miniature.

    I didn’t want to do this for my fantasy miniatures, which where over double in number, so I went with a different approach, and brushed matte medium to which I dipped in flock + sand, and later on PVA glue when I ran out of matte medium. This was a big mistake, as I had varying degrees of shrinking, so much that the interior of the base between the lip and the miniature became a flocked gap. Which means I have to follow up with another brushing of glue and flock with static grass. At least from the looks of it, the static grass seems to cover the gaps. As you can understand this has set me back a lot, and I’ve spent tons of my hobby time just doing this.

    On hindsight, I should not be so adamant about a strong bond of the mini to the new base, and even before gluing the mini to the new base, I should have applied the acrylic brown speckle to the base, and just pushed the mini to the speckle to stick it there, there would have been a minimal mound, and it would be ready to dip in sand and voilla, done. Yes the bond would be just the speckle, but that’s enough for the overall integrity of miniatures.
    Alternatively, I could have used unlipped bases, but that would give me a pitcher’s mound which I wanted to get rid of. So it’s not the best solution.
    With all my miniatures rebased now, it’s absolutely too late to have a different go at it. I also don’t see another situation on my side for rebasing again in the future.

    Once I’m done with the final steps of rebasing I’ll start posting pictures of my new sets, as I believe they truly look better now.

    ps. I also did rebasing of my odd based miniatures, and cavalry and mounts as well. Some longer or wider sci-fi minis I based on 15x20mm pill bases, and my fantasy cavalry and mounts/animals on 15x30mm pill bases. These look significantly better now.


     
  • Unknown's avatar

    giorgis 12:48 pm on December 7, 2024 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , , , ,   

    Rebasing, Continued 

    With my fantasy miniatures I decided to delve a bit more into the best retexturing approach during rebasing.

    Rebased miniature prior to re-texturing. Note how the integral base of the miniature is already flocked with static grass from original basing

    aspects under consideration are:

    • ease of application
    • speed of application
    • possibility of error
    • number of steps
    • finished look
    Left to right: Fine Bird sand (top), Large brown sand (bottom), Green flock, Gray Flock, Brown Flock

    from left to right the basing materials used above are as follows:

    1. PVA + large grain sand
    2. Matte Medium + large grain sand
    3. Brown Acrylic Speckle + Static Grass
    4. Matte Medium + large grain sand + fine sand
    5. Matte Medium + large brown flock + fine sand
    6. Matte Medium + thin gray flock + fine sand
    7. Matte Medium + medium green flock + fine sand

    the results of this step are:

    1. large gaps in the base, will need second application, perhaps just one step of static grass will be enough. NOT table ready
    2. large gaps in the base, will need second application, perhaps just one step of static grass will be enough. NOT table ready
    3. table ready, however application is not easy as care must be taken to not paint the mini, and also must apply grass directly afterwards which is slow. Table Ready AND Finished
    4. irregularities in the base, easy application, barely acceptable look, will need static grass. Table Ready
    5. though the brown flock looks odd, will look ok with static grass. Table Ready
    6. looks ok, static grass will elevate the look. Table Ready
    7. looks as Finished, static grass will elevate the look. Table Ready

    In conclusion, the best results where with green flock + sand, and that’s what I’ll go with for my rebasing, so that I can postpone re-grassing them later in the future, and perhaps have time to do a few actual plays during the holidays.

    The steps for Matte Medium + Green Flock + Fine Sand are:

    1. using a brush, generously apply Acrylic Matte Medium inside of the lip of the base
    2. wipe off the outside of the base from any undesired medium
    3. dip the mini in the green flock
    4. shake off the flock
    5. clean the outer part of the base from any stuck material
    6. dip the mini in the sand
    7. shake off sand
    8. clean the outer part of the base from any stuck material

    I assume the above should also work with PVA, but I’d wager it would shrink more, be a bit glossy, and more difficult to apply than matte medium.

     
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