Continuing with various robots from Brite Minis. I love the sculpts with the cloaks, I find them quite unique and fun. The robot inspector is nice too, plus a robot wizard. They can easily work as Soulless or Bots in Five Parsecs from Home., and will be a nice addition to my not-necrons (cyborgs from alternative armies).
Space RobotsSpace robotSpace robotSpace robotSpace robot deathead with scythe Space robot wizardSpace robot PI
More dudes in space. Four space bandits and one adventuress from Brite Minis. The space adventuress has a small imperfection in the face during printing that I hadn’t noticed until after painting, (these minis are tiny let’s not forget), but I guess it could be a scar from a space battle with a space beast.
Space BanditsSpace bandit with blade and pistolSpace bandit with club and pistolSpace bandit with club and rifleSpace bandit with shotgunSpace adventuress with shotgun
Pookah space nice from dutchmogul/Ill Gotten Games. Two space fringers already in 18mm scale, and one space pirate from 28mm scale that I had to scale down appropriately. I also did some reposing of the pistol arm of the latter for support less printing, but the supported version turned out okay as well, so I painted both.
Some more sci-fi miniatures from Brite Minis sculpts. Again printed in FDM, 15mm scale (60%), 0.03mm layer height. Printed in a Bambu Labs A1 mini with a 0.2mm nozzle and ELEGOO PLA.
They’re a space Minotaur, a space elf, a dwarf with minigun and cloudbuster (tribute to Donald Sutherland). The last two are actually “modern” minis that can double as sci-fi.
They’re not actually a space crew, but… they could be, and given that I painted them together as a group, here they are.
An odd space crewCloudbusterDwarf with minigunSpace ElfSpace Minotaur
Lately I’ve been printing and painting even more of sci fi miniatures. I’ve been reading Five Parsecs from Home: Tactics, and really want to get back into Unified Space. To do this, I’ll want to expand my collection with more sci fi minis and terrain, which I found recently to be a really enjoyable part of the hobby.
I finished several different sets these past few days, but I found that photography against the white photobox background really messes up with exposure. So I printed a black photobox, hoping for some better results. Exposure and contrast is better, but the background is visible as the gloss black layer lines of the photobox reflect the light that falls on them. Nevertheless I find it looks better.
So, Brite Minis has released a set of Space Knight riders. Since they’re modular, I took their heads and weapons, along with some from the Modular Space set, and printed five more Space Knights (and a Space Ranger).
Space Knight with Eyepatch Space Knight with BolterSpace Knight with Dual gunsSpace Knight with BolterSpace RangerThe entire squad of Space Knights
…and a Space Halfling. On a quest to reclaim long stolen credits by a Space Dragon.
Three Space Dwarves and a Space Halfling from Brite Minis. Printed in FDM, 0.03mm layer height. Love their style. Painted them in a similar style to their showcase pictures, washed with Soft Tone wash to lighten their look.
Space partySpace dwarf with pistolSpace dwarf with pistol and axeSpace dwarf with mini gunSpace Halfling
3d printing miniatures is not yet an exact science. There is a lot of trial and error, and when you get some consistent results, it is imperative that you maintain the same parameters for as long as possible in order to have repeatability. I’ve been printing a whole lot of miniatures lately using the settings I’ve defined, and I think it’s about time I’ve sat down and started painting them. I’m tackling first the sci-fi theme, starting with the Brite Minis Space Knights (now available only in MMF as Brite Minis modulars are available in the patreon only on the month of release).
I decided to go with a colour scheme similar to the one Brite Minis did on their print showcase. I’ve mixed different techniques; slap chop, layering and washes. Overkill? perhaps, but I love the end result. The armor is painted in reds (Karmine<Pyrole<Vermillion), the cloths are painted in yellows (Vermillion<Yellow/White mix), and finally some greens (Light Green<Yellow Green<Lemon Yellow), for the skin tone I went with my regular mix (Burnt Sienna<Naples Yellow Red<Naples Yellow Red Light), and some Silver for the metallics.
Space KnightsSpace Knight SergeantSpace Knight with BolterSpace Knight with Plasma gunSpace Knight with Flamer
It’s been a while since the last post, and truth is I’ve been busy. Busy, hobby-wise. It wasn’t so much procrastination, rather jumping from project to project. Skirmish miniatures gaming (and TTRPGs) have a lot of different aspects to keep a hobbyist engaged. There’s reading rules and settings, collecting stuff like miniatures and accessories, building terrain items, painting miniatures, 3d printing, world design, map making, with the utmost goal of playing the game! However all these side-hobbies to playing the game are on their own ground enjoyable, and so I found myself occupied with them. I got into designing and printing and flocking terrain expansion for my Hexxon Tiles (I’ll probably blog about it in another post if there’s enough content to make it worth it), printing and painting Space Hulk tiles, 3d-building dungeon tiles and testing them, and lately printing a 3d space shuttle for my sci-fi games (5 Parsecs from Home I’m looking at you). Constantly jumping around all the above, I was getting into having a lot of semi-started or semi-finished and unfinished projects, and then I realized I need to draw the line somewhere and at least finish something before filling up my closet with more gaming stuff I can’t use. So the focus went on Space Hulk.
Back in the ’90s, I had bought the 1st edition of Space Hulk. Loved the game. Unfortunately when we moved house I gave it away to a friend as part of the general decluttering and I’m only left with the two books – Rules and Missions & Background – which somehow I didn’t give away.
I’ve always remembered fondly the game, and the theme and concept, and having returned back to the hobby these past years, I always circled around the idea of getting back to it. My main obstacle now was scale as I’m not willing to start another scale for a game, and getting Space Hulk into 15mm is really hard, as I’d have to find solutions for all the game pieces and tiles.
For the game pieces I’ve gotten some (rather a LOT) Entomorphs by Vanguard Miniatures; unfortunately I never got their Novan Heavy armour proxies and now they’re out of stock (plus it will cost me like 20 GBP to buy and ship 10 miniatures, and probably another 10 for VAT and customs handling fees). I can proxy Space Marines with some Ion Age knights I had gotten, but they’re not Terminators, and I still may have to find some 3d printable proxies.
For the tiles I did a lot of searching. Before 3d printing, I had considered building my own, but I was never too excited with DIY examples I saw online, and I know my own terrain building limitations. I had considered using the Army Painter Gamemaster XPS set that I still haven’t finished to this day, for a Sci-fi alternative (and had tested a design for this purpose), but I eventually decided against it, as I could not make nice sci-fi or industrial designs with hand carving. The set is great for dungeons and caverns, but looks wonky for machine made parts, and didn’t want to waste my materials for something I wouldn’t like.
Here comes 3d printing to the rescue. 3d printing can output awesome terrain items, with detail. Yet still so many things to consider. There are many sets out there and I had to choose what would work best for me. I evaluated cost, type of joints, scaling down, and of course looks.
Once I saw the HVAC tunnels by Dragon’s Rest I knew my quest was at an end. They looked great! 3d, but yet the minis don’t get hidden; Entire rooms so assembly is not on a tile by tile basis; The looks are awesome. I printed out a sampler of their sci-fi set to ensure that when scaled down the clips would work fine (they do!), and when their last Black Friday sale was on, I bought it.
And it’s been sitting in my collection of 3d stuff for a few months, until I got the urge to sit down and print it. Found out what kind of tiles I’d need for my 1st edition of Space Hulk and started setting up my build plates. Printed a piece to see how it would work with my 15mm bases, and it works perfect! It uses a 1-inch grid, which when scaled down by 60% is exactly 15mm. Then, it took me a whole week and some, to print out the tile set.
Testing the grid and clipsPrinting underwayPrinted piecesPrinted pieces connected
Printed on Bambu Labs A1 mini, with a 0.4 mm nozzle, in 0.08mm Layer Height, ELEGOO PLA filament.
The next challenge was painting. I made the smart choice of printing it out in Space Gray PLA, and primed it using a Clear Plastic Primer spray. The idea behind it to use the default colour of the material to save on painting time (and also any missed spots wouldn’t look bad), for the core walls. I had also to decide on the paint scheme. I eventually settled on the following: Yellow and Red tubes, various Metallics for connectors and details, Warm Gray computer panels, and Silver or White floors (two types).
I used both normal painting and drybrushing, and also applied Oil Washes, this last step was a bit of a chore, but I think well worth it. It is also the reason I still haven’t applied a Sealer Varnish; probably in a week or two.
Drybrushed floors after primingPaintingMore paintingOil washes dryingPainting roomsOil washes drying
Then I spent a couple of weeks doing other things before working on the doors. Painting these took me another few days, as they have plenty of details. I only did 15 doors out of the 20 that the 1st edition core set has, and I realized that it’s not enough to run the 2nd mission which needs 19 doors. So I’ll either paint some of the alternate doors I’ve printed, or print and paint a few more.
Doors paintedDoors with washes before spongingWashes drying
Finally, here are some display shots of the finished table, some painted unused pieces, and some pieces I printed extra to paint in the future. As I said in the beginning, I needed to draw the line somewhere and call it done, so I consider these to be extras for a future time slot before I burnout on this.
First mission overall shotClose upClose upClose upClose upThe rest of my painted piecesSome unpainted pieces
I’ll also see to printing some tokens for blips and overwatch in the future, to have a complete experience.
I was aiming for running this session last weekend, but with Strep and Flu B in the family two weeks in a row, I just didn’t have the energy to do it. The day came though, and I set a game up for the third Field Exercise of Forgotten Ruin. It took me an entire week though to write it down and post it.
This one has the entire Squad (both Fire Teams AND the Squad Leader), but no Platoon officers, so pretty much the regular team that I’ll be taking with me during the campaign.
The enemy force is just two Orc Mobs (Warriors + Archers) of Five orcs each, which sounds easier than last battle, especially considering how I’ll have double the firepower with me this time.
However, the objective is not to eliminate the enemy, but have a troop of mine go to the center of the battlefield and spend an action there. This sounds way more dangerous than sitting in the safety of long range. I can, of course game the game and sit back and let the orcs come to me, but where would the fun be in that!?
Distance conversions Since the game is focused for a 3×3 table, and I’m going with 15mm miniatures on a 2×2 table (with the new 15mm base size, yay!), I’ll do a subtle conversion to gain a bit more room to play, but without being too fiddly to use. I’ll double the values, but measure in centimeters instead of inches, so a Speed of 5″, would convert to 10 cm.
Champions: 1,2 No Champions
The two Fire teams met, and Sergeant First Class Nielsen arrived and took command from Master Sergeant Frank Lee. “Squad is yours Nielsen, I have to get back to Platoon HQ. Tangos are 2 klicks NNE, they seem to be guarding a tower. You are to investigate and eliminate any opposition.” Lee gave the orders and left, M16 strapped on his shoulder. A short while later the 9 soldiers arrived at the point of interest. Two mobs of orcs were visible in the distance, archers sitting behind cover in some ruins. A tower in the middle of the battlefield. Nielsen gathered the squad. “Fire Team 1 take the West Side, Fire Team 2 take the East side, you’ll provide cover against the enemy. I’ll rush in to investigate and dash back to you.”
Pvt. Mays shoots his M70 at the orc archers in cover: 6+1: Great hit: 1+1/1+1: No Damage Pvt. Gibson shoots his M60 at the orc archers in cover: 3,3,4,4: Miss Sgt. Mayer shoots his M16 at the orc archers in cover: 2: Miss
Enemy Phase
The Orc archers suffer from War rage, and they move out of cover The Orc warriors move in a flanking motion from the other side
Slow Phase
SFC Nielsen dashes to the objective tower Pvt Huff shoots his M16 at the Orc archers out of cover: 4: Hit: 2: No Damage Fire team 1 moves to the rock formation
Round 1
Fire Team 2 opens a volley of fire at the orc archers in the ruined gatehouse, however the orcs are in cover, and most of the shots miss, except one aimed shot by Pvt. Mays’ sharpshooter rifle, which grazes an orc, without wounding it. Furious that they’re being shot at, the orc archers jump down from the gatehouse and out of cover, screaming war cries at the soldiers. The other group of orcs, stay in cover and proceed in a flanking movement from the west. With the enemy busy, SFC Nielsen runs in a straight line towards the tower. Pvt. Huff takes an extra shot at the orc archers, but misses, while Fire Team 1 moves in ready position waiting for the enemy to come to them, and keeping overwatch of the open ground at the west side of the tower.
Pvt. Gibson shoots his M60 at the orc archers out of cover:6,2,2,1: Great Hit: 4,1: One orc archer is down Pvt. Mays shoots his M70 at the orc archers out of cover: 4+1: Hit: 1+1: No Damage Cpl. Mayer shoots his M16 at the orc archers out of cover: 5: Hit: 6: Orc archer down Pvt. Huff shoots hiss M16 at the orc archers out of cover: 5: Hit: 1: No Damage SFC Nielsen moves into the tower: Interact: 5+1/4: Success Sgt. Welch Delays Pfc. Shaffer Delays Orc Archers Morale: 2,4: Orc Archers Stay
Enemy Phase
Orc Archers shoot at SFC Nielsen (in cover): 1,5,3: Miss Orc Warriors War rage forwards SFC Nielsen
Slow Phase
PFC Shaffer shoots his M60 at the Orc Warriors: 1,2,3,4: Hit: 6: Orc Warrior is down Sgt Welch shoots his M16 at the Orc Warriors: 5: Hit: 5: Orc Warrior is down Pvt Murphy shoots his M16 at the Orc Warriors: 5: Hit: 4: Orc Warrior is down Pvt. Franks shoots his M16 at the Orc Warriors: 3: Miss Orc Warriors Morale: 2,4,6: Orcs Warriors Stay
Round 2
Fire team 2 keeps shooting at the enemy, who are now carelessly out of cover. Two orc archers are down. SFC Nielsen enters the ruined tower. As he scouts around he sees weird markings of a ritualistic nature. He notes some of them down in his notepad, before noticing the orc archers through the rubble at the dilapidated north wall, aiming at shooting at him. The arrows all strike at the masonry, Nielsen is safe for a few moments, but he knows he has to get out of there. The Orc group from the west, enraged at their enemy in the tower, rush towards him, hoping to get there soon, but they’re now out of cover. Fire team 1 blasts at them with all their guns, killing three of them.
SFC Nielsen moves out of the tower back towards the squad Cpl Mayer shoots his M16 at the Orc Archers: 6: Great Hit: Damage: 5,5: Orc Archer is down Sgt Welch shoots his M16 at the Orc Warriors: 3: Miss Pvt Gibson shoots his M60 at the Orc Archers: 5,5,3,2: 2 Hits: 6,2: Orc Archer is down Pfc Shaffer shoots his M60 at the Orc Warriors: 2,3,3,4: Hit: 5: Orc Warrior is down Morale: Orc Archers: 3,3: Orc Archers Stay Morale Orc Warriors: 2: Orc Warrior Stays
Enemy Phase
Orc archer moves forward and shoots SFC Nielsen: 5: Hit: Damage: 1 SFC Nielsen is stunned Orc Warrior is with war rage and dashes towards Nielsen
Slow Phase
Pvt Mays shoots his M70 at the Orc Archer: 4+1: Hit: 6+1: Orc Archer is down Pvt. Murphy shoots his M16 at the Orc Warrior: 5: Hit: 6: Orc Warrior is down
Battle is over.
Round 3
SFC Nielsen is not going to stay and find out if he can defeat the orcs in close combat. He dashes out of the tower back towards the safety of his own men. In the meantime, the Fire teams don’t stop shooting. 2 more orc archers are down, and another orc warrior. Despite their severe losses, the humanoids stick to fight to the end. The last remaining orc archer has a clear shot at the squad leader and takes it, the arrow hitting the Sergeant. From the west another orc closes at him, screaming with rage and brandishing his weapons. They don’t get a chance to hurt the sergeant again though. A careful shot from Private Mays, takes out the archer, and one from Private Murphy takes out the warrior. The day is victorious, without any casualties, but they need to head back and report to HQ what they found.
Summary
As expected, the player side was victorious. I felt like the odds were in our favor right from the start. We were facing against fewer enemies, and we had more men than in the previous exercise. Perhaps if the table was more busy with terrain it could have been a bit different. During the regular campaign, terrain placement is more random from what I’ve read, and not left up to the player as in the exercises. It is my understanding that this (and of course the Aggression rule) will have severe impact to the flow of battle, but I’ll have to play it out and see for myself. The battle ended quickly and I didn’t even have to (or rather forgot because it was going so well) use the Leadership tactics. For the beginning of the campaign in next session, I’ll write down and finalize my own theme of the world, and perhaps spend a Story point to bring in Athen Smarte from my solo RPG sessions.
In the past couple of months I’ve been 3d printing miniatures in 15mm scale using my Bambu Labs A1 mini with a 0.2mm nozzle and basic PLA filaments. The results so far were good, some better, some worse, but good enough for my (solo) table.
However, continuing my last post about painting these, I could not help but have a slight feeling of frustration fighting against these minor imperfections and layer lines.
So I decided to take a plunge further, and see if I can accomplish even better results on the printing side.
I’ll explain all my process, because I think there’s valuable info, if you don’t want to read it, and just want the print settings, scroll down.
The Basics
My machine is a Bambu Labs A1 mini. I have installed a 0.2mm nozzle. I got a big supply of ELEGOO PLA. It’s really cheap, as I got it at about 10 bucks a roll, final price with shipping, no customs or extra charges. Perhaps some more fancy filament would give better results, but that’s what I have and what I worked with.
Calibration
With Bambu Labs A1 mini I was complacent, reliant on the automated calibration settings, and just using filament manufacturer specs. It became evident to me that if I want to get the best print output I want, I’d have to do manual calibration.
I used Orca Slicer, and run a temperature tower from 190C to 230C. At the temperature of 190, 195 and 200 I had no stringing.
Temperature tower
I then did a Flow Rate compensation test. For ELEGOO PLA the manufacturer gives a value of 0.98. After running the calibration, I increased it to 1.029, as I found the +5 had the best surface.
Flow Rate calibration
I followed up with the Pressure Advance test. I did, Line, Pattern and Tower. For my 0.2mm nozzle this gave the best results at k 0.2
Pressure advance calibration
Just a minor note that I also flow rate calibrated all my 3 opened colours (white, black and space gray) of ELEGOO PLA and got consistent results of 0.2 for my 0.2mm nozzle and 0.02 for my 0.4mm nozzle.
Finally I did a retraction tower calibration and got no stringing at all. So I kept the retraction length at 0.4 as proposed.
Retraction calibration
The I printed a miniature with temperature at 200C. The improvement was evident, but I could see very fine stringing on the prime tower, so I decided to go lower, at 190C which is within manufacturer specs and also was good at the temperature tower, and what do you know? Stringing disappeared.
The takeaway here is if you want to print minis, spend some time and calibrate your printer. It pays off.
With this out of the way, let’s talk about print settings.
Acknowledgments
First of all I’d like acknowledge /u/HOHansen’s major input into giving valuable guidelines, settings, painting tips and driving the FDMminiatures printing community forwards. Thanks. I doubt all of this would have been possible without a strong foundation to experiment with.
Also many thanks to Fat Dragon Miniatures who have shared their print profiles and show that nice quality minis are possible with FDM.
Settings
I won’t go into many details here, as I have done this thoroughly in the past, but give some highlights and thoughts, as well as as key improvements.
First of all I decided to experiment. I used Orca Slicer and used all their fancy bells and whistles. Scarf joints, Precise Z height, whatever I read that could improve quality and was experimental, I enabled.
I lowered my Layer Height to 0.03mm. Yes. That’s lower than the calculated 20% of nozzle size. I reduced resolution to 0.001 and also the Slice Gap Closing radius value.
I reduced the speeds significantly. Quality takes time. I get 2-3 hours of printing time for a single 15mm miniature. Silly? Not for me.
Kept Arachne, and my Prime Tower.
NOTE: I have not tackled support settings yet. If you need supports you’ll have to plug in your own settings, these do NOT work.
Clean levelled plate, lubricated Axes, Dynamic Flow Calibration Disabled. Good to go.
Then I went ahead and printed a Brite mini with my fingers crossed. And what do you know? It worked, amazingly well if I may add. I then printed another one to ensure I have repeatability, and it wasn’t plain luck, it worked as well. Even my “shield” issue was gone (if you’ve noticed my prints so far, the shields had a warp in the lower left side).
There was no stringing and had to do no post processing with a lighter.
On purpose I chose well detailed miniatures like the space bandit and Greek hero.
Bandit frontBandit backGreek hero frontGreek hero back
Painting
I felt confident and decided to go ahead with my “regular” painting process and do my horizontal slap chop., a single damp coat of paint and varnish.
However as /u/Toprewolf proposed, I decided not to apply my regular water based washes, and experiment with Oil washes. Last time I had tried it, it didn’t work as I had hoped, but this time I studied better. I’m still expecting some quality supplies to arrive, but I still wanted to test it. So I decided to test an oil wash made with my dollar store oils on the Greek hero.
Greek hero frontGreek hero rear
It’s still pending the oils to cure and an oil varnish to secure it. But it’s good enough to showcase.
I’m absolutely thrilled with the results. The layer lines are almost nonexistent and this was evident in all steps. Imperfections have vanished. I could see details in the toes and sandals, that my painting covered.
Once I get my quality oils and varnish the minis, I’ll take new photos and upload the results and update this post but I know people are asking about this, so I wanted to share as early as possible.
Next steps
I’ve decided to modulate my hobby time so as to have the most fun, so it’s going to be mostly playing on weekends and painting and printing on weekdays.
On the printing front, the next thing I want to address is Supports.
Summary
Printing high quality minis in small scales is possible in FDM. You’ll need a quality printer that is carefully calibrated and well maintained. Filament must be in a good condition. Reducing the layer and resolution means you’ll need to go slow. Going slow, in turn means reducing the temperature to avoid stringing and oozing. A prime tower is important to allow for the small 15mm mini to cool before the next layer.
Solo, Pen, Paper and Dice 
Reply